Rome: the Eternal City

“O Roma, Roma, at thy feet I lay this barren gift of song! For, ah! the way is steep and long That leads unto thy sacred street.” (Rome Unvisited by Oscar Wilde) Rome: the Eternal city, the Pope, Fellini, gelato, la bella figura, art. These are just some of the words that conjure up so many wonderful things about this beautiful but oftentimes quite imposing city. The task to see Rome can be daunting so here is a list of some of my favorite things (in addition to the long list of “must see things” that every guidebook will give you): TRASTEVERE (“across the Tiber”): it is distinct area of Rome that used to be the city’s poorest slum but today it’s a charming area with wonderful little boutiques, small restaurants and a vibrant nightlife. The city’s large Jewish synagogue is also nearby in the midst of the old Jewish ghetto whose walls were torn down in 1849. AL SOGNO: this adorable toy store at the Piazza Navona sweeps you away no matter how old you are. Its wooden Pinocchio figurines and painted wooden letters are good souvenirs. 53 Piazza Navona. THE TERRACE OF HOTEL RAPHAEL: take a break from the busy street life and enjoy a glass of wine or Champaign on the top of this charming hotel that offers a breathtaking view of the rooftops of the city. FABRIANO: an ultra cool stationary store where everything is arranged by color. 173 Vida del Babiano. THE TINY BOUTIQUE OF LILLIANA MICHILLI: she makes faithful copies of rings by the master jewel makers, Cartier, Bulgari, etc. The best are, however, her original designs: beautiful filigreed earrings, and necklaces. 37 Via dei Banchi Vecchi. VILLA BORGHESE: a magical place with its gardens (sculptures by Bernini’s father) where, under the shade of the huge trees the weary traveler can take respite and seek refuge from the summer heat. The villa houses one of the greatest collections of paintings, sculptures, and antiquities.

Hannah's Bretzel: Twisted and tasty since 1477

The first time I went inside this small organic eatery, Hannah’s Bretzel, in downtown Chicago I felt like I was in Europe. The décor is chic and savvy. The signature color is red. The food is wonderfully fresh and tasty. The owner, Florian Pfahler (originally from Stuttgart, Germany) and his crew serve the ravenous urbanites with these 95 per cent organic bretzels (whole grain or traditional) or bretzel sandwiches, organic salads, and seasonal soups. “Bretzels” are akin to “Pretzels" but as the store website explains it, the company wanted to emphasize the bretezel’s bread-like qualities and to build a bridge to its German origins. They are daily baked and, naturally, are always fresh. Beside the great sandwiches (and coffee creations) there is also a huge selection of chocolates from all over the world. Need I say more? 180 West Washington at Wells, Chicago, Illinois.

Leon, the garden gnome

Call me silly but I’ve always wanted to have a garden gnome (especially, when I saw the movie Amelie where the main character’s father’s gnome gets kidnapped and flown all over the world). And finally, I got Leon, my brand new garden gnome who plays the accordion. I bought this French made fairy tale figurine (these garden gnomes are popular across Europe) at P.O.S.H that sells unique, often one-of-a-kind or limited in quantity products, such as French pastis (anise flavor drink) glasses, coffee bowls, silverware, etc ... and of course, gnomes. When you go to this store located at 613 N. State Street in Chicago, you’d better buy what you like or else you may never find it next time. (The owners often bring these products in from flea markets in Europe.) Even if you don’t fancy gnomes you’ll find something you want to take home from this lovely shop.

Xavier: a cheese-lover's paradise

“Comme ils sont ingrats les hommes! Les uns chantent le pieton; d’autres le jus de pommes, d’autres enfin le houblon. Mais aucun ne rend homage a cet enchanteur divin. Qui donc pourrait, sans fromage; gouter biere cidre ou vins? Fromage! Poesie! Bouquet de mes repas, que sentirait la vie, si l’on ne t’avait pas? (Louis-Eugene, dit Victor Meusy Chansonnier) Do you love cheese? If you do, this place is for you: Xavier Fromagerie. We discovered this culinary gem when we visited Toulouse, France last year. It was a cheese-lover’s paradise with its collection of magnificently pungent, fruity and ripe aromas and tastes. Offering subtlety, mildness, character, diversity of aromas and flavors, colors and shapes the essence of France’s different regions come alive. And thankfully to the Internet, you can order some from their generous assortment of cheeses as well as their cheese trays (such as “the moment of delight” and the “end of the meal” board). The website, written in English, can be easily navigated. They do ship to the United States, but of course, you will have to pay some price for this … a price that’s well worth the days of delight.

A Midsummer Night's Dream in the Morton Arboretum

“Through the house give gathering light, by the dead and drowsy fire: Every elf and fairy sprite. Hop as light as bird from brier; and this ditty, after me, sing, and dance it trippingly.” (William Shakespeare: A Midsummer Night’s Dream). Among the trees in the forests of the Morton Arboretum came alive the magical kingdom of elves and fairies of A Midsummer Night’s Dream this past Sunday. We strolled along with the actors as they moved about the grounds of the arboretum from one off-trail area to another performing the scenes of this classic play in different settings. The guided hikes are non-strenuous and last about 2-3 hours. It is a perfect feast for the senses: the beautiful greenery, the fragrance of the forest, and the enthralling story of Shakespeare. I can tell you that it was truly enchanting as we sat on our portable chairs watching the adventures of mischievous Puck and the other characters of this magnificent play during the balmy midsummer afternoon. You can pre-order the tickets (hikes only are $15.00 non-members) online, by phone or by showing up at the arboretum before the show. You may also want join the dinner after the show, which takes place at Ginko restaurant with the cast of the play. All an all, this was truly a unique experience; one that I will not forget.

Bhabi's Kitchen

My friend and I decided to go check out Bhabi’s Kitchen after I saw the review on “Check Please.” I was not disappointed. The super friendly and sweet husband and wife team (Mr. Syed and Bhabi) runs a wonderful little eatery right off of Devon. The walls are brightly colored that make you feel like you are in somebody’s home. The cuisine is Indian: spicy, fresh and flavorful. My friend and I ordered the “vegetable samosas” that were flaky and light (not greasy at all) to wet our appetite. Mr. Syed then recommended us to try some of the vegetable house specialties: the “Sarsoo K Saag” (Bhabi’s special broccoli rabe cooked with herbs and spices) and the “Bagerey Balgan” (Indian eggplant cooked with secret spices). They were both fantastic. Also, to complement and tame the spiciness of the meals we ordered some homemade bread (the naan with onion, garlic and green pepper and the pistachio, powdered sugar and dried fruit one), which were truly delectable. All in all, if you crave something unique, exotic, flavorful and spicy – go check out Bhabi’s Kitchen. It is also BYOB. 6352 N. Oakley Blvd, Chicago, IL 60659. Tel:

Budapest: "tale of two cities"

Often called “Paris of Eastern Europe,” this majestic city lays a valid claim to be one of the most beautiful capitals of Europe. Necklaced by seven bridges (some are beautiful – such as the Lanchid or Chain Bridge – others are more utilitarian) the city makes a full visual spectacle of the river Danube (making its long course from the Black Forest to the Black Sea) by straddling it on either side: the quiet, leafy, and hilly Buda and the noisy and busy urban Pest. Walking through the cobblestone streets of Budapest one cannot fail to witness the “scars of many conflicts” worn by the beautiful buildings which offer a permanent memorial to the bygone era of wars, Holocaust, and uprising. Today, Budapest boasts of opera houses, numerous museums, theaters, art galleries, cinemas, and countless great restaurants, cafes and bars. Each is easily approachable by some form of the superb public transportation the city offers to its visitors and habitants. (Note: those visitors who are interested in seeing the many sights of Budapest in a hurry can purchase a Budapest Card, available form the metro kiosks, travel agencies, or tourist bureaus for about $35 (6,450 HUF) for two days. It allows free travel on public transports, admission to over 50 key sites, and discounts around town.) As it happens every year I will go home to visit my parents in August. I will then report about the great new restaurants, shops and other noteworthy places of the city. Until then here the TOP 10 sights of Budapest I recommend to a first time visitor: 1. Central Synagogue (the world’s second biggest synagogue) 2. Margaret Island (or Margitsziget, a green oasis in the middle of Buda and Pest) 3. Castle District 4. Varosliget (the City Park with many baths, great restaurants, and museums) and Heroes’ Square. 5. Opera House (Home to Liszt and Mahler) 6. Vaci utca (quaint shopping street in the heart of the city) 7. Basilica 8. Chain Brige 9. Andrassy Boulevard (Budapest’s answer to the Champs D’Elysees)

Santorini ... an awe-inspiring location

This February we arrived from the busy hubbub of Istanbul to the quiet and tranquil village of Oia. During our stay in Santorini we found respite at the Hotel Alexander. We were upgraded to the Diamond suite, which was one of the most beautiful and comfortable rooms (decorated with antiques) we have ever stayed in. Because it was the end of February we were the only guests there. We had much time to contemplate the beauty of the sunsets and the enchanting view of Oia while feasting on bountiful breakfasts and drinking local wine served to us by the gracious Nadia. We also had time to read the guest book which was full of remarks written by more-than-satisfied guests overwhelmed by the hotel’s warm and friendly staff, the welcoming and helpful owner Alexander’s suggestions and hospitality, and the luxuriousness of the hotel accommodation. Even though February is definitely not a busy time of the year it was lovely to drive around the island in our rented Smart car. We can only imagine how wonderful Santorini is during the summer or fall when the quaint shops and delightful restaurants are open. (at least I couldn’t spend money) We will definitely return! Finally, the highlight of our trip: we spent an amazing evening with Alex and Marta, the owners of Alexander Hotel. While we were still at the hotel in Santorini Alex and Marta inquired if we wanted to dine with them in Athens (we didn’t meet them in Santorini because they had business they had to tend to in Athens before the season started). Naturally, we were more then happy to accept their invitation. We were picked up at the metro station by Marta; driven to Lake Marathon (this is where Pheidippides started his famous run to deliver the news of Greek victory over the Persians) where we were invited for a drink by our gracious hosts; taken to a local taverna where we partook in an abundant feast of Greek delicacies -- again at the expense of our hosts; and finally driven back to our hotel by the airport at 3:30 in the morning (about 30 minutes from the taverna). This was a testament to our hosts’ – the owners of Hotel Alexander – genuine love and gracious hospitality.

Those languorous summer days ...

As I was sitting in my backyard in Evanston sipping a glass of wine I closed my eyes reminiscing of past pleasures of summer. I was quickly transported back to the shores of Lake Balaton where I would spend languorous summer days with my friend’s family at Balatonaliga. We would fritter many hours just sitting around the long wooden table under their shady walnut tree eating, drinking, and talking without a care in the world. Then we would jump in the refreshing water of the lake that offered us a welcome relief from the scorching heat. To me, these days represent pure unadulterated joy. To many Hungarians, the region of Lake Balaton (Central Europe’s larges lake, located in central Hungary about 50 miles (80 km) southwest of Budapest) seems to reflect the Hungarian soul better than any other part of the country. As the National Geographic wrote “the atmosphere and mood of a sea – the loneliness, the colours, the whims, the untamed self-will of the ocean.” The region around the lake is a world of light and water. Sunlight flickers on the waters of the lake and sheds its evening glow on the carts that make their way home across the lovely fields. Strings of paprika dying in the sun, caressed by the balmy air and colorful embroidered fabrics make this place so achingly beautiful.

A beautiful day ...

I had the most wonderful day yesterday. It was my birthday and my husband made sure that I had a delightful day. He started me off for a good day when he drove down to Vanille (my favorite patisserie or pastry shop in Chicago) to get some chocolate croissants, a bottle of champagne and some fresh fruit from the farmer’s market. But before we could enjoy this marvelous breakfast/lunch we went running by the lake in Evanston. The temperature was just perfect with just enough wind to cool us off for our little backyard feast. In the afternoon (with a slight buzz from the bubbly drink), we headed down to my favorite French boutique, Cotelac on Webster Street. Luckily (not so much for Richard), a summer sale was in progress (30-70% on certain spring and summer merchandise) so my husband lavished me with a collection of enchantingly beautiful and unique dresses, pants, and tops. What I love about Cotelac is that the clothes are like unique pieces of artwork in the way they are created: the unusual and high-quality fabrics are oftentimes cut, pleated, twisted, and crinkled to form soft, feminine, and beautiful silhouettes. It’s also important to note that the versatility of the line allows the collection to be worn in different ways, mixing and matching separates throughout all the different seasons (and they also travel wonderfully). While the clothes are not inexpensive, the thoughtfulness behind the clever and gorgeous designs of Raphaelle Cavalli is worth (in my opinion) the price. For dinner we feasted on the incredibly fresh and inventive culinary creations of husband and wife gastronomic team, Mohammad Islam and Malika Ameen at Aigre Doux. “Aigre-doux” is the French term for the combined flavors of sour (aigre) and sweet (doux), two flavors that are laced through all of their dishes – sometimes subtly and other times more powerfully. We ordered the sweet pea ravioli and the duck sausage goat cheese pizza for appetizers; the buttery poached cod and seared ahi tuna (appetizer portion) for entrée; and finally we topped all of this off with their signature dessert of sticky toffee bread pudding (which could be marketed as an aphrodisiac). For each of these dishes I could sing an aria exalting their greatness but instead I just say: please eat there!!!

Featured Artist: Dalia Pascal

Whenever I wear this set (shown on the picture) by Dalia Pascal people comment on how great and unique it looks. As I noted in my blog about Mexico City, I bought this set in the boutique of the La Condesa Hotel DF in Mexico. The coral color bean-shaped beads are laced with the silver beads that make this necklace truly striking. Dalia often uses materials that are indigenous to Mexico to create great pieces of jewelry, such as chunky silver rings (some with semi-precious stones), unique necklaces and earrings with distinctive ethnic motifs. Some of her designs are available now to people in the United States through the Internet at www.etnyka.com. You can also visit her website at www.daliapascal.com.