I Amsterdam

No doubt Amsterdam has often been painted as the modern day Babylon with its drug and prostitution culture but the city has another, more redeeming side. That side offers an amazingly rich texture of fine arts and craftsmanship that is woven through the city. This Amsterdam is the one we loved; the one with its many world-class museums, lovely neighborhoods, and fine restaurants. 1. Anne Frank House. Pinsengracht 267. It is a 17th century canal house where Anne and her family hid for 2 years before the Nazis hauled them off to the concentration camps. It is impossible not to feel moved while climbing upstairs on the narrow staircase to the rooms where Anne spent her last couple of years hiding. In the new wing, there is an interesting exhibition where visitors can respond to a variety of controversial questions regarding discrimination, freedom of speech, religion, and the press. After each question the answers of the audience are tallied up and shown in comparison with responses given by all visitors. The “house” is nestled among the charming canal houses, bohemian cafes, and shady trees in the Jordaan district. I highly recommend a walk around this area. 2. Rijksmuseum. Although only a small part of the museum is open at the moment due to its renovation, what can be seen is still truly amazing. There are over 20 Rembrandts and a few Vermeers as well as other Dutch masters’ works are on display. Seeing these masterpieces, such as Rembrandt’s Night Watch and Vermeer’s Woman Reading a Letter is truly impressive. 3. Van Gogh Museum. It is around the corner from the Rijskmuseum. An amazing collection of this hugely productive but sadly tortured soul. Ever since I saw a temporary collection of Van Gogh in Los Angeles I have been in love with the works of Van Gogh and have been utterly fascinated with this artist’s passionate but painful life. Anybody who feels the same must pay a visit to his museum in Amsterdam. 4. Rembrandthuis. Rembrandt bought this house for f13,000 in 1639 which was a huge sum of money at the time. Naturally, the free-spending artist couldn’t keep up with the mortgage payments and he eventually went bankrupt, dying destitute. Because of the inventory that the clerks kept after the master went bankrupt, renovators were able to restore the house to what it looked like thereby creating a “mock-up” of the original. 5. Restaurant Segugio. I believe one of the guidebooks described this as the place that serves the “Best. Risotto. Ever.” And it is true. Their white truffle risotto was out of this world. My husband liked it so much he ordered it as his dessert. The rest of the items were outstanding as well and the owner/manager is the nicest, friendliest man … I love the Italians. 6. Brasseri Harkema. This former tobacco factory has been evidently enchanting many diners since it opened. The design is modern, not fussy but urban, cool and clean. The dishes are excellent and reasonably priced. Stays open late. 7. Restaurant Vermeer. This Michelin starred eatery offers not only the obligatory fine dining but also the charming décor that is part of the Hotel Barbizon. No doubt Vermeer would have felt at home in this restaurant. “A diversity of ornaments dating from the 17th century, like a fire place and the black and white marble tiles, give the present guests the ambiance of the gracious life of the Golden Century.” USEFUL TIP: It is worth purchasing an "I AMSTERDAM CARD" upon arriving at the airport from the Tourist Office (or from online and then you can pick up the card in person). The card grants access to a list of museums for free (Anne Frank's house is not included), free transportation, as well as a free one hour canal boat tour. Available for 1, 2, or 3 days.

The Alhambra Palace: where east meets west

If you want to feel like you are somewhere in Morocco or Tunisia without leaving Chicago, head to 1240 West Randolph Street, where the Alhambra Palace restaurant is located. This place is astounding. As you step in through the restaurant's huge decorativly carved gates you feel like you are stepping into a palace that is straight out of Arabian nights with its vibrant colors (especially red because "alhambra" means red), mosaic tiles, intricately designed furniture that create a luscious, exotic, and intoxicating sensual experience. The place is absolutely huge. It seats 450 people and has a bar upstairs with a lounge. There is a stage in the middle and a dance floor and a belly dancing show entertain the audience every Wednesday, Friday and Saturday starting at 10 p.m. Yesterday, when we went there were flamenco dancers that were seriously good and after the belly dancer some really cool Middle-Eastern singers kept the audience on their feet. The food was good but the quantities are enormous. We should have simply ordered mezzes(smaller, tapas style dishes) and one or two main plates. To complete the evening one must order a hookah (a water pipe that allows you to smoke herbal fruits and tobacco) which is fun even for the non-smokers like me. Go to this place you won't regret it. picture from Alhambra's website

Prague: beautiful but not a bargain

It’s been a few days since we returned from our “Thanksgiving tour in Europe” but we still have not quite recovered from how expensive Europe has become for Americans. While Prague has always been heralded as a bargain city I can tell you that it is no longer case. Yes, it is a beautiful city but the government officials obviously decided to take every – I mean, every – possible opportunity to “milk the tourists” whenever they can. Naturally, tourism is a vital source of income to lots of cities but the cities should not be unabashedly greedy to the point of charging entrance fee to churches, cathedrals, public streets (no matter how charming they are) and cemeteries. Enough of ranting, here are some of our top spots in Prague: 1. CHARLES BRIDGE(Karluv Most). Yes, I know that it is one of the touristiest places in town but it is a must. The stone bridge was built in 1357. Initially, I believe, with only one statue on the bridge while the rest of them began to arrive in the 17th century. One of them is the “Lorraine Cross” which is about halfway across the bridge (you won’t miss it because there are always eager tourists who want to take their photo) and if you touch the statue your wish comes true. There are always street entertainers here and a myriad of street vendors who are more than ready to sell tourists everything from photos to necklaces. 2. OLD TOWN SQUARE. Again, it is an obligatory place where one can see the famed astronomical clock. The clock has been ticking since 1490 and has been pulling in the crowds even if its “on the hour” performance has been fairly unspectacular. The square, however, is enchanting with its mélange of baroque and medieval structures. It was a medieval town’s marketplace where the action took place, including the execution of criminals. Today, the activity is much milder – sipping mulled wine during the winter or drinking coffee in one of the many cafés. 3. GOOD CZECH BEER HALL. It is a matter of personal taste and opinion as to the best tasting beer in the world but when it comes to beer-consumption nobody can beat the Czechs. They are the world champions with 162 litres per person per year. Ireland takes second spot with 146 litres and Germany third with 123 litres, according to the Czech Brewery Association. And if you want to drink one of the best ones in town (according to our native Czech friend and self-acclaimed “beer connoisseur,” Slavek), head to the one on Vycep, Taborska 49 where Jaroslav Hasek, famous Czech humorist and writer (Svejk the Good Soldier) used to hung out. Another good bet is U Jelinku, where Hasek hang out as well, is at Charvatova 1; tel: ; open 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., Monday to Friday. 4. JOSEFOV (Jewish quarter). The main streets are Josefov and Parizska with its elegant avenues of unaffordable but incredibly chick designer boutiques. The spiritual heart of the quarter is the Old-New Synagogue, built in 1270, which is the oldest synagogue in Europe. One can purchase a ticket for 300 korona (about $18.00) that grants admission to 4 synagogues (not the Old-New one), the ceremonial hall and the cemetery (where you cannot go in for free but can only visit if you purchase the all-inclusive ticket). 5. Prague Castle. Founded some time around 870. It may be the number one tourist attraction (if not the Charles Bridge which is still free). A grandiose facade enclosing the complex greets the visitor. A ticket costs about 350 Kc that allows entrance to the Royal Palace, the Basilica of St. George St. George and the enchanting Golden Lane (Zlata Ulicka) where Kafka’s sister lived (as well as Kafka) for a while (No. 22). 6. VYSEHRAD. My favorite site of Prague. The castle was founded here and one of the first sights one sees is the Rotunda of St. Martin from the second half of the 11th century, which is the oldest complete Romanesque building in Prague. Next to the neo-Gothic Church of SS Peter & Paul is Slavin, Vysehrad’s cemetery where Dvorak, Smetana, writers Karel Capek and Jan Neruda rest. In essence, the Père-Lachaise of Prague. It is a beautiful and restful place where no frenzied tourists gather (and it is free.) 7.GOOD RESTAURANTS: Chez Marcel, Hastalska 12, tel. 222.315.676 (close to the Spanish synagogue). It is as French as it gets with its French waiters. Kolkovna, V Kolkovne 8, tel. 222.819.701, traditional Czech pub food with good beer, listed in the Michelin book.

Checking in from Prague ...

Well, it appears that the Anne Frank tree will be saved after all. It was exciting to be in Amsterdam when the fate of the famed tree was about to be decided. Those who wanted to save the tree (after some independent testing) rushed to the higher court to get an injunction ... and they won! The tree will be protected. Amsterdam is an interesting town. It is a melange of famous art (Van Gogh, Vermeer, Rembrandt, etc), beautiful architecture, beer, prostitution, and marijuana. I will write in detail about our experiences and recommendations when I get back to the United States. In the meantime, we are in Prague now. It is a beautiful city and there is truly a lot to explore here: the Jewish quarter, the castle district, the Charles bridge, the Old town, etc. It is especially pleasant now that there are not as many tourists here. It is sort of melancholic as the sun goes down and a blueish gray sky envelops the city. Everybody is bundled up as they hurry to the nearest pub to warm up over some beer. Cheers to Prague and Happy Thanksgiving to all.

Anne Frank tree is to be felled ...

"Nearly every morning I go to the attic to blow the stuffy air out of my lungs, from my favourite spot on the floor I look up at the blue sky and the bare chestnut tree, on whose branches little raindrops shine, appearing like silver, and at the seagulls and other birds as they glide on the wind. As long as this exists, I thought, and I may live to see it, this sunshine, the cloudless skies, while this lasts I cannot be unhappy." The famous chestnut tree that Anne Frank wrote in her diary was scheduled to be taken down on Wednesday, November 21. Originally, they postponed the taking down of the tree to give objectors an opportunity to come up with some kind of a plan which would enable the owner of the building in whose garden the tree is located to preserve the tree. Unfortunately, the risk of trunk breaking was so huge that they couldn't wait with this sad event any longer. After the felling, a graft from the original tree will be put in its place. In this way the tree, which is so closely connected with the memory of Anne Frank, will live on.

Final Countdown ...

2 more days until our departure for "Thanksgiving in Europe" (he, he). We'll be spending a few days in Amsterdam and a few days in Prague (where I haven't been in for 15 years). I cannot wait. We'll start getting to know Amsterdam by dining with some Amsterdamians (is that what they're called?) through the "like-a-local" program. We first read about this in the New York Times travel section. This program allows visitors to dine with locals in their home feasting on their home-cooked meal while talking about life. Sounds fun. We'll let you know (those who visit our blog) how things go as we travel through these magnificent cities. I can't wait ...

My favorite sushi restaurant: Jai-Yen

I could eat at this sushi restaurant every night. It is that good. The fish is fresh and the dishes are inventive. My definite favorite sushi roll is the "Tropical Maki" (Tuna, yellowtail, scallion, cilantro, jalapeño, cucumber, avocado topped with tempura crunch and spicy mayo) which, in my opinion, offers a perfect combination of different textures and flavors. It is absolutely awesome and I seriously crave it even now. Jai-Yen also offers pan Asian dishes with Japanese cuisine as their specialty. It is also a BYOB which is a plus. 3736 N. Broadway, Chicago, IL. 773.404.0555

Dinner at Brasserie Ruhlmann

One of the latest additions to the Chicago dining scene is Brasserie Ruhlmann located at the old Montgomery Ward building at 500 West Superior. When you walk in this restaurant it feels like you are snapped out of the streets of Chicago and placed in a brasserie in Paris. It is a meticulously-crafted restaurant that pays homage to the great Art Deco designer Émile-Jacques Ruhlmann. The Restaurant evokes a uniquely French sentiment, adhering to traditional standards of simplicity, detail, and elegance that are universally and enduringly valid. It is obvious that the designer of this dining establishment payed much attention to details: the walls are lined with rich chocolate hues of faux Macassar ebony, the banquettes are enveloped in ruby red leather, and the servers' helpers are wearing black Lacoste polo shirts. This dedication to detail is also evident in the food they serve here. The portions are perfect (thankfully not huge ones!) and the quality of the food is impeccable. Again the theme of "paying attention to details" echoes back: the ingredients are supremely fresh. I ordered an endive salad and the cheese souffle, which was superb and my husband chose the mussels with hand-cut fries (outstanding) and the hanger steak. The price is a bit steep ($19 for the "Le Burger") but somebody has to pay for the hand-laid tiles and the crushed red velvet.

Seatte: coffee, grunge, great food

To tell the truth, I have gotten a little bit behind in my blog-writing. I am not sure why. Perhaps as the weather gets colder in Chicago I quiet down and become more introspective. But let’s cure that. Last week Richard and I went to Seattle, Washington. And even though we had a temporary setback when we missed our plane from Chicago (we did gain the lost 3 hours back at the tail end when our flight from Seattle was scheduled to leave 3 hours later because of some unforeseen problems with the airplane) we “managed” to have fun the rest of the weekend. Here is a list some of our favorites in Seattle: 1. PIKE MARKET PLACE: It is a public market overlooking the Elliot Bay waterfront. The Market, that recently celebrated its 100th anniversary (opened August 17, 1907), is one of the oldest continually operated public farmer's markets in the country. It is a place of business for many small farmers, craftspeople and merchants. It is deservedly the number one tourist attraction of Seattle. I absolutely loved the fresh produce; the apples tasted like apples as opposed to what you get in most grocery stores. The dazzling dahlias enchanted the shoppers with their countless colors. One of the Market’s major attractions is the “flying fish” market where the employees throw fish to one another rather than passing them by hand while loudly calling out the name of the fish that was just purchased, its amount and weight. Also, Starbucks Coffee (you know how much I don’t like it) was founded near the Market (at 2000 Western Avenue in 1971). The sign outside features the original logo of the bare-breasted siren that was modeled after a 15th century woodcut. Naturally, it is not the only Starbucks here because there is one on virtually every corner (Starbucks also bought Seattle’s Best and Torrefazione Italia so now they can be on the way to “rule the world.”). If you want something that is less of a tourist-frenzied place but sells good coffee (and local beer) at the Market, go to the Local Color (which also offers free wi-fi access) at 1606 Pike Place. Naturally, while you are at Pike Place Market it’s “obligatory” to take a photo with the market’s official mascot, Rachel, the bronze cast pig(gy) bank. Rachel was designed by local artist Georgia Gerber and modeled after a pig (also named Rachel) that lived on Whidbay Island and was the official winner of the biggest pig contest in 1977. Rachel receives roughly $9,000 a year in different types of currency and it is offered to different charitable institutions funded by the Market. Locals make a habit of emptying their pockets and rubbing Rachel's snout for good luck. TIP: If you want to have a romantic evening in a restaurant where you dine on fresh French food and can view the beautiful sunsets of Elliot Bay, go to Maximilien’s in the Market (yes, I know I am not supposed to write about tourist traps. I know that plenty of people would say that this place is. Some even remarked on various sites that the service wasn’t great. I don’t know. Maybe it’s not impeccable but the owners and waiters are friendly, the food is fresh, and the view is enchanting.) 2. BAINBRIDGE ISLAND: It is an island in Puget Sound, and is an incorporated city with a population of approximately 20,300. Interestingly, in July 2005, CNN/Money and Money magazine named Bainbridge Island the second-best place to live in the United States. In order to visit the island the tourist and resident alike can take the Washington State Ferry service from Seattle to Bainbridge Island. The ride takes about 35 minutes to cross Puget Sound and offers a great panoramic view of Seattle. The island is a wonderful getaway from the business of the city where one can go hiking, biking, and just delighting in nature. Additionally, there are lots of lovely little shops and restaurants on the Island. For lunch, we tried to get in Café Nola but the wait was too long so we chose – our friend’s (whom we met on our trip to Mexico City) recommendation – the Harbour Public House (231 Paritt Way SW, Tel: ) instead. The restaurant’s historic setting offers a great view of Eagle Harbour where boats are bobbing and seagulls are windsurfing above. Choose a refreshing microbrew to go with those fish and chips, sandwich or salad. For dinner, our friend took us to Madoka Pan Pacific Restaurant (241 Winslow Way. Tel: ) that is truly a remarkable restaurant where the menu is “based on the bounty of the Pacific Ocean, influenced by the multitude of surrounding countries and cultures." The chef emphasizes high-quality sustainable products from the Northwest. The food alone here was worth the trip. 3. SPACE NEEDLE and MONORAIL: Obviously touristy but a must, just like the Sears Tower in Chicago or the Empire State Building in New York City. A kitschy, 60s design that was created for the 1962 World’s Fair that offers a wonderful 360-degree panoramic view of the city. It is the symbol of Seattle. The entry tickets make you want to mortgage your house ($16.00 for adults) but the view is almost worth it. We even got to see the majestic Mount Rainier peaking through and floating above the clouds. The Space Needle is surrounded by a park that contains a science museum and a kiddy land that is near the art museum and is a terminus of the Monorail (which was also built for the World’s Fair and runs every 10 minutes depositing you nearby the Market). 4. VICTROLA COFFE ROASTER (310 E. Pike Street): Needless to say that it is much better than Starbucks. A really good coffee house where the owners are pre-occupied with quality and passion for coffee. It is obvious that they take pride in their coffee. As they describe it on their website, every morning they gather – since 2003 when they began roasting their own coffee “because we wanted to have a direct hand in the quality of our coffees before they made their way into the espresso hopper or the French press. Armed with passion and a desire to learn that continues to influence everything we do, we committed ourselves to the task of sourcing, roasting and preparing the finest coffees available.” Need I say more? 5. PIONEER SQUARE (101 S. Main Street): Pioneer Square is the neighborhood where Seattle was founded in 1852, following a brief six-month settlement at Alki Point. It is now a National Historical District. The neighborhood is paved with cobblestones and populated with tiny little shops, galleries, coffee shops, and bookstores such as Elliot Bay Book Company that has the reputation (justly so) of being one of the finest book stores in the Northwest (I venture to say that probably in the country). This purveyor of books is a true gem with its hardwood floors, exposed beams, and huge, built in bookshelves with a multitude of books that leaves you in awe. As you walk around and browse through the books you’ll find hand-written notes attached to certain books with thoughts and/or remarks by the staff. I could have spent an entire day here; simply a must. While the bookstore does house a coffee shop I recommend you to go to Café Umbria – a block away (320 Occidental Ave. South) – that was established by an Italian family in 1986 and serves outstanding coffee creations. 6. SERIOUS PIE (316 Virginia Ave.) and LOLA (2000 4th Avenue) RESTAURANTS: Sorry to say but I was not familiar with Tom Douglas who is apparently a well-known chef in the culinary world (I guess one could say the Emeril of the Northwest … sorry, Mr. Douglas!). But after our visits to two of his eateries, I can safely say that he that the accolades that precede his name are well deserved. Both Lola’s (named after his mother in-law, I believe, offers a Greek-inspired menu that combines local northwest ingredients with Mediterranean freshness and simplicity.) and Serous Pie (serving rustic pizzas that are “brought to life on this blistered crust, lightly textured but with just enough structure and bite, and with exactly the right amount of “serious” toppings”) offer food that are made with fresh, in-season ingredients that not only warm the soul but fill up the hungry stomach. (Sorry, the pictures are taken with my phone and as you can see they are not very good!)

Walnut Valley Festival

My husband had been bugging me for years to go with him to Winfield, Kansas to the bluegrass festival. At first, I was reluctant to do so because I am not exactly a bluegrass music fan. But I decided to go. How can I explain the experience? I cannot. Words simply cannot describe the atmosphere of Winfield. You must go there yourself but it will be well worth your time because there is no event in the world that comes even close to this. Where else would you be able to see an outdoor jamming session, which is more like a huge outdoor orchestra (whose members dress for a particular theme, such as “jammin’ in the jungle”) that plays the hora (traditional Jewish folk dance) to which a man from Kansas with an orange wig on dances an Irish jig. This sounds crazy but it is true at the Carp tent (one of my favorite camp sites where the music is awesome and the atmosphere is even better!) First, the raw facts: the Walnut Valley Festival (generally referred to as Winfield by non-residents or simply Bluegrass to Winfield locals) is a well-known acoustic music festival, held annually in Winfield, Kansas. The main genre of music is bluegrass but other acoustic styles are represented as well such as: Irish music, 20s-30s swing music, folk music, etc. The festival is held on the Wednesday through Sunday that includes the third Saturday of September. There are four simultaneous stages and many impromptu venues, notably “Stage 5,” that allow for a wide range of musical interests. Besides the world-class paid performers (the Dixie Chicks, Alison Crouse, Nickel Creek started here), Winfield is known for its instrumental contests. The headline contest is the National Flat-Pick guitar Championship. Other contests include the National Bluegrass Banjo, Hammer Dulcimer, fiddle, and Mandolin Championship. Camping on the grounds of the Cowley County Fairgrounds opens one week before the Thursday when the stage acts begin. Even before that, many regular campers are in line for choice campsites. This event is known as the Land Rush after the Oklahoma Land Rush that happened nearby. Approximately half of Winfield campers bring a musical instrument, so the campgrounds are particularly conducive to all-night jamming. Many of these campers do not only come from different parts of the country but of the world. Other visitors to the festival, like us, stay at a nearby hotel. Now, the personal impressions: the people you meet at Winfield are incredibly nice and laid-back -- be it a federal judge, a cowboy, an attorney or a surgeon. What binds them together is their love of music. Be it freezing cold or steaming hot, the people who come here to listen to their favorite music or jam until 4 am are not deterred by weather. They come here to Winfield to play and have fun.

A culturally saturated weekend: Stratford and Niagara-on-the Lake

We spent our Labor Day weekend with our friends in Canada. Every year we travel to Stratford (Shakespeare Festival) and Niagara-on-the Lake (George Bernard Shaw Festival) in Canada to absorb as much Shakespeare as we can during this 3-4 day trip. The entire trip to Stratford (from Chicago) takes about 8-9 hours but we usually split it in half. We drive either to Detroit or Windsor, Canada; spend the night there and the next day we drive to Stratford. This time we drove to Detroit and spent the night at the Westin Hotel by the airport. The hotel was wonderful, especially their famous heavenly bed. After a good night sleep we headed to Stratford. Stratford is nestled in the picturesque heartland of Perth County in rural southwestern Ontario; this picturesque town offers world-class theater, great shopping, and first-rate dining experience. Truly, this is a paradise for Shakespeare lovers and of other fine playwrights. This year the Stratford Festival of Canada season runs from April 10 through to November 4, 2007. This acclaimed theater company presents 14 plays in repertory in four distinct theaters around the city. We saw the musicals My one and only and Oklahoma and the plays Othello and Comedy of Errors. Indeed, we are like paratroopers who are on a mission of trying to see as many plays as we can – it means two a day. But of course, not everybody has to be like us. It is equally pleasant to just walk along the Avon River and feed the ducks and swans, have a picnic or shop in the lovely little boutiques on Ontario Street. Naturally, we cannot forget to mention the dining here in Stratford. It is truly awesome. We especially love Bijou (French cuisine with an ever-changing blackboard menu), the Old Prune (superb food in a contemporary décor); and Rundles (the cuisine is based on French cookery with influences from Italy and Japan). I have to underline Bijou. It is absolutely our favorite restaurant in town and their braised, crispy duck leg is absolutely out of this world. I could eat there every night and the prices are very reasonable (they used to be even better when the dollar was stronger). On Sunday morning – after we consumed our last breakfast at the Alexandra Inn (we stayed here seven years but this year the owners decided to close their doors to guests) we drove to Niagara-on-the Lake, which is about an hour and a half drive from Stratford. It is the home to the Shaw Festival’s three theaters. This little town seems to attract visitors of many kinds: shoppers, history buffs, epicures, wine connoisseurs, gardeners, and those just seeking a leisurely escape. The town, set in a landscape of vineyards and orchards, is rich with beautifully restored architecture, lovingly tended parks and gardens, imaginative shops and galleries, a picturesque marina, luxury hotels and charming bed and breakfasts. We saw an afternoon performance of G.B. Shaw’s The Philanderer, which was a wonderfully performed witty play. The rest of the day we spent wondering around town and having a simple but scrumptious dinner (some awesome bread, salami, and cheese from DeLuca’s Cheese Market and Deli) at our B&B’s (The Guy Wilson House) back porch. Next morning -- after a super-awesome gourmet breakfast -- we headed over to the Canadian side of the Niagara Falls – a wondrous sight to behold – (a mere 15 minute drive) before we headed back to Chicago. I cannot wait to return next year!

Mai Manó Fotogaleria

My parents and I visited this fin-de-siecle gem, off of Andrassy Boulevard, that houses a wonderful photo gallery giving proper tribute to Budapest's famous photographic history (Kertesz, Brassai, Capa ... to mention a few). The eight-floored building was built in a secessionist style in 1894 on the order of the the photographer, Manó Mai (1855-1917). In 1931, Sándor Rozsnyai (a musical director) and is wife bought the building from the family. They built the three-floored Arizona club in the yard, which had been empty until then. This remained open until 1944, when the owners were probably killed by Hungarian or German Nazis. After the war, the building served a variety of purposes such as a school or a presentation hall. From the early 1960s the Budapest branch of Hungarian Automobile Club used it over a period of 30 years. The Hungarian Association of Photographers was able to start buying the property rights from the residents. The Mai Manó Gallery opened on the half-floor in 1995 and the Hungarian House of Photography opened on the first and second floors in 1999. After the exhibit we had a cup of coffee at the Mai Mano Cafe which is next door to the gallery. It is also worth mentioning that the Mai Mano photo gallery is located on the "Muvesz Setany" where one can see three beautifully renovated theater houses, such as Thalia, Operett and Moulin Rouge.

Paris: a movable feast ...

What can I say about Paris … other than to me (and I suspect to many others) it is the most beautiful city in the world. My friend and I visited it for 3 days this time (Make sure you know when the holidays are because almost everything is closed. For example, August 15 is Assumption Day, a Catholic holiday when only the restaurants and museums were open). Here are some of the highlights from this trip: 1.) CANAL St-MARTIN: this is the new, increasingly hip and bohemian quarter of the city, especially for the young 20- and 30-somethings. The three-mile canal along the canal, a Seine shortcut is lined by hip, colorful boutiques and funky restaurants. Even though the shops were closed due to the Fete d´Assumption, Antoine et Lili (95 quai de Valmy) looked cool with its supremely fashionable baby and children clothes. We had lunch at the Hotel du Nord where the 1938 film of the same name was shot, which is an idyllic spot overlooking a footbridge of the canal. 2.) PERE LACHAISE CEMETERY: it is Paris`most famous and prestigious cemetery, set on a hill, lined with massive trees, populated with beautiful toombstones. It looks like an outdoor museum. Famous people lay here buried such as: Marcel Proust, Jim Morrison, Edith Piaf, Moliere, Oscar Wilde, and La Fontaine … just to name a few. Not far from here is the Edith Piaf Museum in Belleville (5 rue Crespin-du-Gast, 11th, 00 33 01-43.55.52.72 but by appointment only) but unfortunately, we could not visit it due to our lack of time. 3.) LE MARAIS: it remains my favorite quartier of Paris. Old elegance is embodied in the beautifully restored 17th century mansions that harmoniously co-exist with the cool boutiques displaying contemporary art, fashion, and culture. In the heart of the Marais is the Place des Vosges, perhaps the most lovely square in the world and my favorite. Victor Hugo lived here in one of the houses and where he created Les Miserables. 4.) BOUTIQUE CREA: I just discovered this boutique on this recent trip to Paris. I instantly fell in love with the unique and artful designs that combine natural colors and materials. Conveying a strong personality, Crea Concept collections make you stand out from the crowd. 2 bis rue des Rosiers. Tel: 01 42 74 18 69 5.) ILE ST-LOUIS: One of the most beautiful areas of Paris; a haven of serinity and old world elegance. It is the favorite residential area of artists and, I suspect, wealthy people. When strolling across the calm and romantic streets do not forget to stop by Berthillon because all Parisians know that it is the best ice cream parlor around. TIP: I stayed at the Hotel Eiffel Kennedy, which is located by the the building of Radio France. It is in walking disntance from the Eiffel Tower and Trocodero. The rooms are clean, comfortable and charming; the staff is very kind and friendly (especially Bernard) 12 rue de Boulainvilliers, tel: 00 33 (0)1 45 24 45 75. I got a special rate for $206 for 2 nights, which was a bargain. I would stay here again. The bus 72 stops here, which takes you to the very center of Hotel de Ville.

Kekesteto - Hollókő

The motorcycle trip with my brother was awesome. I loved the speed of the bike as well as the beautifully picturesque countryside we traveled through. I saw some of the most breathtakingly simple yet amazing sights, tiny villages, and churches. I felt like I was traveling back in time to those memorable years of my childhood as we spotted storkes nesting on top of the light poles. We first rode to Kekesteto which measures to be the highest point (1014 meters) in Hungary. It is a member of the Mátra Mountains that belongs to the Northern Mountain Range and is a part of the largest young volcanic zone of Europe. From the vineyard-covered landscape of the foot of the Mátra travellers can arrive at the wooded mountains in a flash. When we arrived at Kekesteto we climed the lookout tower that offered us a glorious panoramic view of the surrounding area. We left Kekesteto driving down the hairpinlike turns toward Hollókő, which is located in a picturesque mountainous area, about 100 km away from Budapest. But before we arrived at this lovely village we had lunch at a roadside restaurant called Baboscsarda (Beansoup tavern). We ate their namesake beansoup and a spatzle (german noodles) with fresh sheep cheese and bacon (not exactly low-fat). When we arrived at Hollókő – a part of the UNESCO World Heritage – my heart almost skipped a beat at the sight of this charming village which is practically a "living museum" on the northern part of Hungary. This astounding community has preserved the warm, people-friendly atmosphere of the diminishing village-life so many of us long to experience. The traditional peasant houses, surrounded by the gentle slopes of the Cserhát recalls the world of the old Hungarian folk tales. Here you can find a wonderful example of the harmony can be created between nature and architecture. There are several museums and shops that give us a glimpse of a long gone area. Hand-made pottery as well as beautifully designed and hand-embroidered dresses made by local artists can also be purchased here (I bought a beautiful hand-made blouse for about 30 dollars). After Hollókő we headed home to Budapest and we stopped at an outstanding gelateria called "Vari Cukraszda" (ice cream shop located at 1161 Budapest Szlovák út 86) that offered the most amazing variety of flavors such as chocolate-chili pepper and tokaji aszu (world famous Hungarian after-dinner drink) ice cream (many of these flavors won a Gold or Silver medal at the Italian Ice Cream Competition at Rimini). The awsome gelato was a crowning end worthy end to a perfect day.

Back home ...

Well, I just got here to Budapest on Monday. And even though I am trying to get over the jetleg I did a lot of walking around town yesterday: from the Margaret Island my brother and I strolled across the Danube on Margaret Bridge, down on Sent Istvan korut (Saint Stephen Blvd.) that has some beautiful buildings built Classissist style (e.g. Vigszinhaz, one of the many theaters in the city) and where the weary traveler can stop for a couple of scoops of gelato (a type of ice cream) then we continued on Terez Korut to Oktogon. The Oktogon, of course got its name because this square has six sides with streets and boulvards running through it. Andrassy Boulvard is one of them and my favorite with its massive shade-giving trees. About 5 minutes from Oktogon is Liszt Ferenc Ter where there is a row of cafes that offers different types of cuisine. We tried Cafe Vian (normally I go to the one next door to it, Cafe Miro) that offers an imaginative selection of salads and sandwiches with some great local wine in an ambiance suitable for relaxed chatting and catching up with old friends. It is interesting to note that the city is filled with backpackers from all-over Europe because the biggest music event of Central-Eastern Europe, the Sziget or "Island," is taking place right now on Hajogyarisziget, part of Obuda Island in the Danube north of Budapest. This marathon of concerts takes place for a week. There are hundreds of foreign -- some of them are well-known -- and local bands that entertain the crowds. This festival attracts a lot of people because of its high quality performers and lower ticket prices. Day passes are 8000 HUF or 40 dollars. Today, my brother is dragging me to ride his motorcycle around Hungary. It will be interesting because it is incredibly hot so I have to decide between wearing protective gear and avoiding a heatstroke. I will report on this advanture ...

Anne Fontaine: the perfect white shirt

Born to a Brazilian mother and a French father, Anne Fontaine – in my opinion – creates some of the most beautiful white shirts in the world. The classic white shirt is the equivalent of the “small black dress” which is a fashion must-have, an indispensable piece of every woman’s wardrobe. The choice of a single, luxurious product, and the cachet of “Made in France” allowed this designer to distinguish her brand and product. Anne Fontaine’s shirts are beautifully designed, feminine and sensual; they are made of pique (brushed) cotton, poplin, and organdy. Her designs have “double collars,” laces, flowers (of the same white fabric) and unique twists that other shirts do not have. Each shirt is a perfect. Unfortunately, they are a bit pricey (especially now that the dollar is so weak against the euro). They do have sales twice a year, however! Located at 909 N. Michigan Avenue, Chicago, Illinois but they have boutiques throughout the United States and Europe.

Ravinia: Music under the stars

What can be better than a bottle of good red wine, cheese, and Viennese waltzes under the starry nights? Not much. Honestly, Ravinia is one of my favorite places in the world. Since 1904, Ravinia has been associated with Chicago’s “sounds of summer.” Imagine a huge park with a lot of massive shade-giving trees where you can put down your blanket and lay down on the beautifully maintained lawn and share a picnic with your friends while you are listening to the some of the greatest music of the world. And it gets better as the evening progresses: as the sun goes down, the air gets balmier; the lightening bugs begin their magical dances and the stars begin to flicker. I only wish I could be at Ravinia every night because it’s truly delightful. Tonight’s performance is Mahler’s Sixth Symphony, August 4th it’s Placido Domingo and August 5th it’s Beethoven’s Fifth.

Rome: the Eternal City

“O Roma, Roma, at thy feet I lay this barren gift of song! For, ah! the way is steep and long That leads unto thy sacred street.” (Rome Unvisited by Oscar Wilde) Rome: the Eternal city, the Pope, Fellini, gelato, la bella figura, art. These are just some of the words that conjure up so many wonderful things about this beautiful but oftentimes quite imposing city. The task to see Rome can be daunting so here is a list of some of my favorite things (in addition to the long list of “must see things” that every guidebook will give you): TRASTEVERE (“across the Tiber”): it is distinct area of Rome that used to be the city’s poorest slum but today it’s a charming area with wonderful little boutiques, small restaurants and a vibrant nightlife. The city’s large Jewish synagogue is also nearby in the midst of the old Jewish ghetto whose walls were torn down in 1849. AL SOGNO: this adorable toy store at the Piazza Navona sweeps you away no matter how old you are. Its wooden Pinocchio figurines and painted wooden letters are good souvenirs. 53 Piazza Navona. THE TERRACE OF HOTEL RAPHAEL: take a break from the busy street life and enjoy a glass of wine or Champaign on the top of this charming hotel that offers a breathtaking view of the rooftops of the city. FABRIANO: an ultra cool stationary store where everything is arranged by color. 173 Vida del Babiano. THE TINY BOUTIQUE OF LILLIANA MICHILLI: she makes faithful copies of rings by the master jewel makers, Cartier, Bulgari, etc. The best are, however, her original designs: beautiful filigreed earrings, and necklaces. 37 Via dei Banchi Vecchi. VILLA BORGHESE: a magical place with its gardens (sculptures by Bernini’s father) where, under the shade of the huge trees the weary traveler can take respite and seek refuge from the summer heat. The villa houses one of the greatest collections of paintings, sculptures, and antiquities.

Hannah's Bretzel: Twisted and tasty since 1477

The first time I went inside this small organic eatery, Hannah’s Bretzel, in downtown Chicago I felt like I was in Europe. The décor is chic and savvy. The signature color is red. The food is wonderfully fresh and tasty. The owner, Florian Pfahler (originally from Stuttgart, Germany) and his crew serve the ravenous urbanites with these 95 per cent organic bretzels (whole grain or traditional) or bretzel sandwiches, organic salads, and seasonal soups. “Bretzels” are akin to “Pretzels" but as the store website explains it, the company wanted to emphasize the bretezel’s bread-like qualities and to build a bridge to its German origins. They are daily baked and, naturally, are always fresh. Beside the great sandwiches (and coffee creations) there is also a huge selection of chocolates from all over the world. Need I say more? 180 West Washington at Wells, Chicago, Illinois.

Leon, the garden gnome

Call me silly but I’ve always wanted to have a garden gnome (especially, when I saw the movie Amelie where the main character’s father’s gnome gets kidnapped and flown all over the world). And finally, I got Leon, my brand new garden gnome who plays the accordion. I bought this French made fairy tale figurine (these garden gnomes are popular across Europe) at P.O.S.H that sells unique, often one-of-a-kind or limited in quantity products, such as French pastis (anise flavor drink) glasses, coffee bowls, silverware, etc ... and of course, gnomes. When you go to this store located at 613 N. State Street in Chicago, you’d better buy what you like or else you may never find it next time. (The owners often bring these products in from flea markets in Europe.) Even if you don’t fancy gnomes you’ll find something you want to take home from this lovely shop.

Xavier: a cheese-lover's paradise

“Comme ils sont ingrats les hommes! Les uns chantent le pieton; d’autres le jus de pommes, d’autres enfin le houblon. Mais aucun ne rend homage a cet enchanteur divin. Qui donc pourrait, sans fromage; gouter biere cidre ou vins? Fromage! Poesie! Bouquet de mes repas, que sentirait la vie, si l’on ne t’avait pas? (Louis-Eugene, dit Victor Meusy Chansonnier) Do you love cheese? If you do, this place is for you: Xavier Fromagerie. We discovered this culinary gem when we visited Toulouse, France last year. It was a cheese-lover’s paradise with its collection of magnificently pungent, fruity and ripe aromas and tastes. Offering subtlety, mildness, character, diversity of aromas and flavors, colors and shapes the essence of France’s different regions come alive. And thankfully to the Internet, you can order some from their generous assortment of cheeses as well as their cheese trays (such as “the moment of delight” and the “end of the meal” board). The website, written in English, can be easily navigated. They do ship to the United States, but of course, you will have to pay some price for this … a price that’s well worth the days of delight.

A Midsummer Night's Dream in the Morton Arboretum

“Through the house give gathering light, by the dead and drowsy fire: Every elf and fairy sprite. Hop as light as bird from brier; and this ditty, after me, sing, and dance it trippingly.” (William Shakespeare: A Midsummer Night’s Dream). Among the trees in the forests of the Morton Arboretum came alive the magical kingdom of elves and fairies of A Midsummer Night’s Dream this past Sunday. We strolled along with the actors as they moved about the grounds of the arboretum from one off-trail area to another performing the scenes of this classic play in different settings. The guided hikes are non-strenuous and last about 2-3 hours. It is a perfect feast for the senses: the beautiful greenery, the fragrance of the forest, and the enthralling story of Shakespeare. I can tell you that it was truly enchanting as we sat on our portable chairs watching the adventures of mischievous Puck and the other characters of this magnificent play during the balmy midsummer afternoon. You can pre-order the tickets (hikes only are $15.00 non-members) online, by phone or by showing up at the arboretum before the show. You may also want join the dinner after the show, which takes place at Ginko restaurant with the cast of the play. All an all, this was truly a unique experience; one that I will not forget.

Bhabi's Kitchen

My friend and I decided to go check out Bhabi’s Kitchen after I saw the review on “Check Please.” I was not disappointed. The super friendly and sweet husband and wife team (Mr. Syed and Bhabi) runs a wonderful little eatery right off of Devon. The walls are brightly colored that make you feel like you are in somebody’s home. The cuisine is Indian: spicy, fresh and flavorful. My friend and I ordered the “vegetable samosas” that were flaky and light (not greasy at all) to wet our appetite. Mr. Syed then recommended us to try some of the vegetable house specialties: the “Sarsoo K Saag” (Bhabi’s special broccoli rabe cooked with herbs and spices) and the “Bagerey Balgan” (Indian eggplant cooked with secret spices). They were both fantastic. Also, to complement and tame the spiciness of the meals we ordered some homemade bread (the naan with onion, garlic and green pepper and the pistachio, powdered sugar and dried fruit one), which were truly delectable. All in all, if you crave something unique, exotic, flavorful and spicy – go check out Bhabi’s Kitchen. It is also BYOB. 6352 N. Oakley Blvd, Chicago, IL 60659. Tel: