Traveling with the Grossmans ...

Vintage Wine Bar

2008-06-23T09:20:00.002-05:00

Well, with the struggling U.S. economy and staggering gas prices we're laying low this summer opting for entertainment stateside and in our city. Thankfully, Chicago offers a lot of fun, especially during the summer. I'll work on compiling a list of worthwhile places to visit in the Second City. Until then, here is a tip: if you find yourself with some free time and a (somewhat) hungry stomach, drop in Vintage Wine Bar at 1942 division street, chicago, illinois, 773.772.3400. They have a live jazz night on Thursdays (our friend Allen worked the drums there last week) and awesome finger food (try the thin crust goat cheese and artichoke pizza, it is sensational!) and the wine is not to shabby either. Have fun!

Another lovely trip to Mexico (photo gallery)

2008-04-07T11:56:00.005-05:00

We have just returned from Puerto Vallarta, Mexico where we celebrated my husband's birthday. The past 6 days were filled with many pleasant hours of basking in sunshine and cooling off in the refreshing waters of the Mayan Resorts. Puerto Vallarta is an ideal vacation spot (especially for those who want to take a break from the chilling winter of Chicago) where one can still discover the rich cultural and gastronomical heritage of Mexico. Unfortunately, with the influx of American cookie cutter fast food restaurants, chains, and huge ocean-front resorts Puerto Vallarta is beginning to lose some of its enchanting old world quality. So hurry up while you can still experience the authentic Puerto Vallarta (which is only a short airplane flight away from Guadalajara.) 1. Walking around town. Puerto Vallarta's center has, among other things, one of Mexico's best restaurants, one of its finer selections of Huichol Indian art, lovely restaurants (try to avoid the ones that strictly cater to mostly American tourists, such as Pipi's.) and other pleasant distractions of civilization that soothe and stimulate the senses of those with only a day or two to spend. Make your way down on the Malecon (the street that runs along with the ocean), which extends from the Hotel Rosita at its north end to the South Side’s La Palapa restaurant. As you saunter down the street, in and out of the tiny shops (occasionally you may want to duck in for a margarita), make sure you will not be charmed by one of the "helpful" salespersons who tries to offer you everything from free drinks to money if you go on one of their resort tours (that often last for hours). It is also worth going up and down on the cobble-stoned side streets that offer true gems of Mexico's culture: jewelry boutiques (Daniel Espinosa), great restaurants (Cafe Des Artistes, El Arrayan and Si Senor), and lovely buildings. If you are not too tired, walk down to Viejo Vallarta and to Zona Romantica, which are a few blocks south of the Malacon. 2. NDO Lozano's jewelry at Galeria Vallarta. If you like dramatic and original artwork in a jewelry, make sure you do not skip this gallery in Puerto Vallarta. NDO Lozano, son of famous Mexican sculptor, Armando Lozano, truly works magic with his hands by producing glorious jewelry designs in bronze. Juarez 265 Col. Centro, Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco. 3. Los Xitomates. The name means "tomatoes" in Aztec. The cuisine is high Mexican that constantly evolves by combining elements from the new world while maintaining its pre-Colombian roots. The chef, trained in Austria, masterfully combines the wonderfully fresh ingredients with herbs and spices cajoling the taste buds to have a true fiesta in one's mouth. The tuna appetizer is sashimi grade and the stuffed poblano pepper with onions, tomatoes, and goat cheese pleases even the non-vegetarians (Note: there are several vegetarian dishes available). The wine list is extensive but not inexpensive. Morelos 610 - Centro - C.P. 48300 - Puerto Vallarta - Jal.México - (322) 222 94 34 4. Guadalajara. It is the capital city of the Mexican state of Jalisco. The city is located in the central region of the state and in the western-Pacific area of Mexico. With a population of 1,600,940 it is Mexico's second most populous municipality after the Mexico City. The town of Guadalajara was founded in 1531 by Spanish explorer Cristóbal de Oñate. Today the city's cultural wealth has taken on an important role in the tourist sector; Guadalajara hosts many of the main cultural events in the country and is a main destination for people who visit Mexico. The city has a rich variety of architectural styles, ranging from the baroque to the modern. The city's colonial architecture is a product of French and Spanish trends that were current in Europe at the time of Guadalajara's initial settlement. The examples of many of these styles can be found in the old historic city center. The Cathedral on Avenida Alalda is a good place to start, which is located on a beautiful square with its Governmental Palace with the painted murals of Jose Clemente Orozco called "The People and Its Leaders." While exploring the historic center with its magnificent buildings, fountains and monuments make sure you pay a visit to the city's market(near Plaza Tapatia). Look for the elevated pedestrian walkway that leads to it. The mercado is a must for shoppers looking for something to take home. Finally, finish your tour of the old center with the Hospicio Cabañas, which houses Orozco's frescos and which are considered his masterpieces. 5. Tlaquepaque, Jalisco.It is a district that has attracted many artists and tourists alike and is located in Guadalajara. The main street is Independencia with its tiny shops selling everything from beautifully embroidered blouses to pottery. It is worth visiting the Museo Regional de la Ceramica (yes, the entrance fee is free) that is housed in a beautiful building with a lovely garden. Head down up and down from Independencia to Morelos and Constitucion where the colorful houses offer a feast to the eyes. Under 270 Morelos. close to the most emblematic buildings of the town you will find El Hotel Rosa Morada, which is an absolute gem that is owned by a lovely and talented woman, Rosy Cruz, who designs and sells her furnitures and artwork. This bed & breakfast is like a treasure chest with its rooms that are decorated in the same styles as the old haciendas. The hotel has a restaurant that offers traditional Mexican dishes and drinks. The Cultural Center, El Refugio, built in 1890 as a convent and only a block away, is now where expositions of crafts and shows of mexican culture take place. Only steps away and in front of one another are two of the most beautifull and visited churches in Tlaquepaque, San Pedro Apostol and El Santurario de la Soledad. Both constructions are living examples of the typical architecture that reigned during the colonial times.

Powerhouse

2008-03-25T22:33:00.003-05:00

It has indeed been a long time since I wrote a review but here it is, nonetheless. Today, we dined at Powerhouse restaurant at 215 North Clinton Street, Chicago. The restaurant used to house the coal-fired generators and boilers that provided the electricity for the Chicago Northwestern Railroad. The ambiance is pleasant (the dining room does resemble a train car without being too crammed) and the service is attentive without being overwhelming. Chef John Peters (ex Naha and Alinea) does a great job with his menu offering wonderful seafood, poultry and meat dishes. The wine menu is satisfactory. It is definitely worth a second visit!

Dinner at Sepia

2008-02-06T15:52:00.000-06:00

"Seamlessly melding refined and rustic, vintage and contemporary" is an accurate description of this restaurant. Upon entering the eatery, one feels comfortable yet classy. The restaurant is in a building that used to be a print shop in the 1890s (hence the name "Sepia" which is often used as a photographic term "of a dark brown color, with a little red in its composition") and gives homage to it with its decor and classic dishes. The seasonal menu is rooted in fresh and organic ingredients showcasing classic dishes with a twist. The bread is sensational (we found out that they order it from Bennison's Bakery in Evanston) -- which is always, in my opinion, a sign of a great restaurant). I recommend you try the beof tartare or beef tartare as an appetizer! It is wonderful ... and the chocolate crepe, which is sinful! The restaurant is located at 123 N. Jefferson, Chicago, IL.

A late "Buon Natale" from Italy ....

2008-01-08T12:17:00.000-06:00

A couple of weeks have passed since Christmas and our trip to Italy but it feels like yesterday when we were walking on those winding cobble stones of Asolo, Italy. Two days before Christmas Eve was my parents’ 40th wedding anniversary so Richard and I thought we ought to “kidnap” them and take them to Venice, the eternal city of love to mark their milestone together. With much planning, driving, and asking for directions (and with some “minor” complications) we did get to Asolo. "Marca Trevigiana's pearl" or a “town of Hundred Horizons,” as Asolo is often referred to, is a magical town dating back to pre-Roman times, located in a magnificent spot above a hill overlooking the Cyprus trees and rolling hills, about an hour drive from Venice. Asolo has a charm that few other towns possess with its winding streets and quaint shops and friendly townsfolk. The town also boasts of famous residents, such as Robert Browning and actress Freya Stark who lived here. The town itself has approximately 500 local residents and because of its lovely location and charm it has long been known to true Veneto aficionados as a secret hideaway for visitors. “Immersed in a private garden of pomegranate trees and fragrant seasonal flowers, Hotel Villa Cipriani is surrounded by the views that inspired Titian and Giorgione. Perched above the hills of Asolo, our hotel is only an hour’s drive from Venice,” boasts the hotel websites. Undeniably, the Villa Cipriani is a true gem that offers weary travelers paradise like conditions and we highly recommend it. The rooms take you back to a different era with its hand-painted tiles and antique furniture. The view and location are only superseded by the hotel's supremely friendly staff. Thank you to all of them! After a few hours of walking around and discovering the hidden treasures of the lovely boutiques of Asolo (it was a Sunday before Christmas when traditionally shops remain open to accommodate the last minute shoppers) and sampling heavenly Christmas fritelli (fried spiced doughnut-like balls akin to “manna”) with Moscato (I do love Italy for their citizens’ unquenchable passion to live life to the fullest and because they are not afraid to share it with others) we headed to our destination: Venice. What can I say about Venice that others have not already said? That it’s magical? That it is like a fairy tale myth? Somebody once told me that Venice is like a capricious woman who only reveals that side of hers whichever one wants to see: if one only wants to see the sinking city that’s crowded with tourists than that person will only see that. However, if one truly wants to discover the hidden treasures of this “mysterious woman” than to this person Venice offers everything. Winter in Venice is tranquil where there is a fresh crispness to the seaside air and where there is a certain pinkish haze that envelops the city’s canals, fine palazzos, and vaporettos. It is the time where the city reveals its more authentic side: when the layer of frenzied tourist serving kitschy souvenirs seem to have been washed away and when it feels like the Venetians are reclaiming their city. Neighborhoods and markets seem more authentic, and the people standing next to you in the bars and bakeries are locals. This is the Venice I prefer …so a late “Buon Natale” (=Good Birth) to all and a Adventurous New Year!

I Amsterdam

2007-12-07T11:14:00.000-06:00

No doubt Amsterdam has often been painted as the modern day Babylon with its drug and prostitution culture but the city has another, more redeeming side. That side offers an amazingly rich texture of fine arts and craftsmanship that is woven through the city. This Amsterdam is the one we loved; the one with its many world-class museums, lovely neighborhoods, and fine restaurants. 1. Anne Frank House. Pinsengracht 267. It is a 17th century canal house where Anne and her family hid for 2 years before the Nazis hauled them off to the concentration camps. It is impossible not to feel moved while climbing upstairs on the narrow staircase to the rooms where Anne spent her last couple of years hiding. In the new wing, there is an interesting exhibition where visitors can respond to a variety of controversial questions regarding discrimination, freedom of speech, religion, and the press. After each question the answers of the audience are tallied up and shown in comparison with responses given by all visitors. The “house” is nestled among the charming canal houses, bohemian cafes, and shady trees in the Jordaan district. I highly recommend a walk around this area. 2. Rijksmuseum. Although only a small part of the museum is open at the moment due to its renovation, what can be seen is still truly amazing. There are over 20 Rembrandts and a few Vermeers as well as other Dutch masters’ works are on display. Seeing these masterpieces, such as Rembrandt’s Night Watch and Vermeer’s Woman Reading a Letter is truly impressive. 3. Van Gogh Museum. It is around the corner from the Rijskmuseum. An amazing collection of this hugely productive but sadly tortured soul. Ever since I saw a temporary collection of Van Gogh in Los Angeles I have been in love with the works of Van Gogh and have been utterly fascinated with this artist’s passionate but painful life. Anybody who feels the same must pay a visit to his museum in Amsterdam. 4. Rembrandthuis. Rembrandt bought this house for f13,000 in 1639 which was a huge sum of money at the time. Naturally, the free-spending artist couldn’t keep up with the mortgage payments and he eventually went bankrupt, dying destitute. Because of the inventory that the clerks kept after the master went bankrupt, renovators were able to restore the house to what it looked like thereby creating a “mock-up” of the original. 5. Restaurant Segugio. I believe one of the guidebooks described this as the place that serves the “Best. Risotto. Ever.” And it is true. Their white truffle risotto was out of this world. My husband liked it so much he ordered it as his dessert. The rest of the items were outstanding as well and the owner/manager is the nicest, friendliest man … I love the Italians. 6. Brasseri Harkema. This former tobacco factory has been evidently enchanting many diners since it opened. The design is modern, not fussy but urban, cool and clean. The dishes are excellent and reasonably priced. Stays open late. 7. Restaurant Vermeer. This Michelin starred eatery offers not only the obligatory fine dining but also the charming décor that is part of the Hotel Barbizon. No doubt Vermeer would have felt at home in this restaurant. “A diversity of ornaments dating from the 17th century, like a fire place and the black and white marble tiles, give the present guests the ambiance of the gracious life of the Golden Century.” USEFUL TIP: It is worth purchasing an "I AMSTERDAM CARD" upon arriving at the airport from the Tourist Office (or from online and then you can pick up the card in person). The card grants access to a list of museums for free (Anne Frank's house is not included), free transportation, as well as a free one hour canal boat tour. Available for 1, 2, or 3 days.

The Alhambra Palace: where east meets west

2007-12-02T08:55:00.000-06:00

If you want to feel like you are somewhere in Morocco or Tunisia without leaving Chicago, head to 1240 West Randolph Street, where the Alhambra Palace restaurant is located. This place is astounding. As you step in through the restaurant's huge decorativly carved gates you feel like you are stepping into a palace that is straight out of Arabian nights with its vibrant colors (especially red because "alhambra" means red), mosaic tiles, intricately designed furniture that create a luscious, exotic, and intoxicating sensual experience. The place is absolutely huge. It seats 450 people and has a bar upstairs with a lounge. There is a stage in the middle and a dance floor and a belly dancing show entertain the audience every Wednesday, Friday and Saturday starting at 10 p.m. Yesterday, when we went there were flamenco dancers that were seriously good and after the belly dancer some really cool Middle-Eastern singers kept the audience on their feet. The food was good but the quantities are enormous. We should have simply ordered mezzes(smaller, tapas style dishes) and one or two main plates. To complete the evening one must order a hookah (a water pipe that allows you to smoke herbal fruits and tobacco) which is fun even for the non-smokers like me. Go to this place you won't regret it. picture from Alhambra's website

Prague: beautiful but not a bargain

2007-11-29T13:15:00.000-06:00

It’s been a few days since we returned from our “Thanksgiving tour in Europe” but we still have not quite recovered from how expensive Europe has become for Americans. While Prague has always been heralded as a bargain city I can tell you that it is no longer case. Yes, it is a beautiful city but the government officials obviously decided to take every – I mean, every – possible opportunity to “milk the tourists” whenever they can. Naturally, tourism is a vital source of income to lots of cities but the cities should not be unabashedly greedy to the point of charging entrance fee to churches, cathedrals, public streets (no matter how charming they are) and cemeteries. Enough of ranting, here are some of our top spots in Prague: 1. CHARLES BRIDGE(Karluv Most). Yes, I know that it is one of the touristiest places in town but it is a must. The stone bridge was built in 1357. Initially, I believe, with only one statue on the bridge while the rest of them began to arrive in the 17th century. One of them is the “Lorraine Cross” which is about halfway across the bridge (you won’t miss it because there are always eager tourists who want to take their photo) and if you touch the statue your wish comes true. There are always street entertainers here and a myriad of street vendors who are more than ready to sell tourists everything from photos to necklaces. 2. OLD TOWN SQUARE. Again, it is an obligatory place where one can see the famed astronomical clock. The clock has been ticking since 1490 and has been pulling in the crowds even if its “on the hour” performance has been fairly unspectacular. The square, however, is enchanting with its mélange of baroque and medieval structures. It was a medieval town’s marketplace where the action took place, including the execution of criminals. Today, the activity is much milder – sipping mulled wine during the winter or drinking coffee in one of the many cafés. 3. GOOD CZECH BEER HALL. It is a matter of personal taste and opinion as to the best tasting beer in the world but when it comes to beer-consumption nobody can beat the Czechs. They are the world champions with 162 litres per person per year. Ireland takes second spot with 146 litres and Germany third with 123 litres, according to the Czech Brewery Association. And if you want to drink one of the best ones in town (according to our native Czech friend and self-acclaimed “beer connoisseur,” Slavek), head to the one on Vycep, Taborska 49 where Jaroslav Hasek, famous Czech humorist and writer (Svejk the Good Soldier) used to hung out. Another good bet is U Jelinku, where Hasek hang out as well, is at Charvatova 1; tel: ; open 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., Monday to Friday. 4. JOSEFOV (Jewish quarter). The main streets are Josefov and Parizska with its elegant avenues of unaffordable but incredibly chick designer boutiques. The spiritual heart of the quarter is the Old-New Synagogue, built in 1270, which is the oldest synagogue in Europe. One can purchase a ticket for 300 korona (about $18.00) that grants admission to 4 synagogues (not the Old-New one), the ceremonial hall and the cemetery (where you cannot go in for free but can only visit if you purchase the all-inclusive ticket). 5. Prague Castle. Founded some time around 870. It may be the number one tourist attraction (if not the Charles Bridge which is still free). A grandiose facade enclosing the complex greets the visitor. A ticket costs about 350 Kc that allows entrance to the Royal Palace, the Basilica of St. George St. George and the enchanting Golden Lane (Zlata Ulicka) where Kafka’s sister lived (as well as Kafka) for a while (No. 22). 6. VYSEHRAD. My favorite site of Prague. The castle was founded here and one of the first sights one sees is the Rotunda of St. Martin from the second half of the 11th century, which is the oldest complete Romanesque building in Prague. Next to the neo-Gothic Church of SS Peter & Paul is Slavin, Vysehrad’s cemetery where Dvorak, Smetana, writers Karel Capek and Jan Neruda rest. In essence, the Père-Lachaise of Prague. It is a beautiful and restful place where no frenzied tourists gather (and it is free.) 7.GOOD RESTAURANTS: Chez Marcel, Hastalska 12, tel. 222.315.676 (close to the Spanish synagogue). It is as French as it gets with its French waiters. Kolkovna, V Kolkovne 8, tel. 222.819.701, traditional Czech pub food with good beer, listed in the Michelin book.

Checking in from Prague ...

2007-11-23T04:25:00.001-06:00

Well, it appears that the Anne Frank tree will be saved after all. It was exciting to be in Amsterdam when the fate of the famed tree was about to be decided. Those who wanted to save the tree (after some independent testing) rushed to the higher court to get an injunction ... and they won! The tree will be protected. Amsterdam is an interesting town. It is a melange of famous art (Van Gogh, Vermeer, Rembrandt, etc), beautiful architecture, beer, prostitution, and marijuana. I will write in detail about our experiences and recommendations when I get back to the United States. In the meantime, we are in Prague now. It is a beautiful city and there is truly a lot to explore here: the Jewish quarter, the castle district, the Charles bridge, the Old town, etc. It is especially pleasant now that there are not as many tourists here. It is sort of melancholic as the sun goes down and a blueish gray sky envelops the city. Everybody is bundled up as they hurry to the nearest pub to warm up over some beer. Cheers to Prague and Happy Thanksgiving to all.

Anne Frank tree is to be felled ...

2007-11-16T11:12:00.000-06:00

"Nearly every morning I go to the attic to blow the stuffy air out of my lungs, from my favourite spot on the floor I look up at the blue sky and the bare chestnut tree, on whose branches little raindrops shine, appearing like silver, and at the seagulls and other birds as they glide on the wind. As long as this exists, I thought, and I may live to see it, this sunshine, the cloudless skies, while this lasts I cannot be unhappy." The famous chestnut tree that Anne Frank wrote in her diary was scheduled to be taken down on Wednesday, November 21. Originally, they postponed the taking down of the tree to give objectors an opportunity to come up with some kind of a plan which would enable the owner of the building in whose garden the tree is located to preserve the tree. Unfortunately, the risk of trunk breaking was so huge that they couldn't wait with this sad event any longer. After the felling, a graft from the original tree will be put in its place. In this way the tree, which is so closely connected with the memory of Anne Frank, will live on.

Final Countdown ...

2007-11-15T14:54:00.001-06:00

2 more days until our departure for "Thanksgiving in Europe" (he, he). We'll be spending a few days in Amsterdam and a few days in Prague (where I haven't been in for 15 years). I cannot wait. We'll start getting to know Amsterdam by dining with some Amsterdamians (is that what they're called?) through the "like-a-local" program. We first read about this in the New York Times travel section. This program allows visitors to dine with locals in their home feasting on their home-cooked meal while talking about life. Sounds fun. We'll let you know (those who visit our blog) how things go as we travel through these magnificent cities. I can't wait ...

My favorite sushi restaurant: Jai-Yen

2007-11-09T13:41:00.000-06:00

I could eat at this sushi restaurant every night. It is that good. The fish is fresh and the dishes are inventive. My definite favorite sushi roll is the "Tropical Maki" (Tuna, yellowtail, scallion, cilantro, jalapeño, cucumber, avocado topped with tempura crunch and spicy mayo) which, in my opinion, offers a perfect combination of different textures and flavors. It is absolutely awesome and I seriously crave it even now. Jai-Yen also offers pan Asian dishes with Japanese cuisine as their specialty. It is also a BYOB which is a plus. 3736 N. Broadway, Chicago, IL. 773.404.0555

Dinner at Brasserie Ruhlmann

2007-11-01T11:03:00.000-05:00

One of the latest additions to the Chicago dining scene is Brasserie Ruhlmann located at the old Montgomery Ward building at 500 West Superior. When you walk in this restaurant it feels like you are snapped out of the streets of Chicago and placed in a brasserie in Paris. It is a meticulously-crafted restaurant that pays homage to the great Art Deco designer Émile-Jacques Ruhlmann. The Restaurant evokes a uniquely French sentiment, adhering to traditional standards of simplicity, detail, and elegance that are universally and enduringly valid. It is obvious that the designer of this dining establishment payed much attention to details: the walls are lined with rich chocolate hues of faux Macassar ebony, the banquettes are enveloped in ruby red leather, and the servers' helpers are wearing black Lacoste polo shirts. This dedication to detail is also evident in the food they serve here. The portions are perfect (thankfully not huge ones!) and the quality of the food is impeccable. Again the theme of "paying attention to details" echoes back: the ingredients are supremely fresh. I ordered an endive salad and the cheese souffle, which was superb and my husband chose the mussels with hand-cut fries (outstanding) and the hanger steak. The price is a bit steep ($19 for the "Le Burger") but somebody has to pay for the hand-laid tiles and the crushed red velvet.

Seatte: coffee, grunge, great food

2007-10-14T13:23:00.000-05:00

To tell the truth, I have gotten a little bit behind in my blog-writing. I am not sure why. Perhaps as the weather gets colder in Chicago I quiet down and become more introspective. But let’s cure that. Last week Richard and I went to Seattle, Washington. And even though we had a temporary setback when we missed our plane from Chicago (we did gain the lost 3 hours back at the tail end when our flight from Seattle was scheduled to leave 3 hours later because of some unforeseen problems with the airplane) we “managed” to have fun the rest of the weekend. Here is a list some of our favorites in Seattle: 1. PIKE MARKET PLACE: It is a public market overlooking the Elliot Bay waterfront. The Market, that recently celebrated its 100th anniversary (opened August 17, 1907), is one of the oldest continually operated public farmer's markets in the country. It is a place of business for many small farmers, craftspeople and merchants. It is deservedly the number one tourist attraction of Seattle. I absolutely loved the fresh produce; the apples tasted like apples as opposed to what you get in most grocery stores. The dazzling dahlias enchanted the shoppers with their countless colors. One of the Market’s major attractions is the “flying fish” market where the employees throw fish to one another rather than passing them by hand while loudly calling out the name of the fish that was just purchased, its amount and weight. Also, Starbucks Coffee (you know how much I don’t like it) was founded near the Market (at 2000 Western Avenue in 1971). The sign outside features the original logo of the bare-breasted siren that was modeled after a 15th century woodcut. Naturally, it is not the only Starbucks here because there is one on virtually every corner (Starbucks also bought Seattle’s Best and Torrefazione Italia so now they can be on the way to “rule the world.”). If you want something that is less of a tourist-frenzied place but sells good coffee (and local beer) at the Market, go to the Local Color (which also offers free wi-fi access) at 1606 Pike Place. Naturally, while you are at Pike Place Market it’s “obligatory” to take a photo with the market’s official mascot, Rachel, the bronze cast pig(gy) bank. Rachel was designed by local artist Georgia Gerber and modeled after a pig (also named Rachel) that lived on Whidbay Island and was the official winner of the biggest pig contest in 1977. Rachel receives roughly $9,000 a year in different types of currency and it is offered to different charitable institutions funded by the Market. Locals make a habit of emptying their pockets and rubbing Rachel's snout for good luck. TIP: If you want to have a romantic evening in a restaurant where you dine on fresh French food and can view the beautiful sunsets of Elliot Bay, go to Maximilien’s in the Market (yes, I know I am not supposed to write about tourist traps. I know that plenty of people would say that this place is. Some even remarked on various sites that the service wasn’t great. I don’t know. Maybe it’s not impeccable but the owners and waiters are friendly, the food is fresh, and the view is enchanting.) 2. BAINBRIDGE ISLAND: It is an island in Puget Sound, and is an incorporated city with a population of approximately 20,300. Interestingly, in July 2005, CNN/Money and Money magazine named Bainbridge Island the second-best place to live in the United States. In order to visit the island the tourist and resident alike can take the Washington State Ferry service from Seattle to Bainbridge Island. The ride takes about 35 minutes to cross Puget Sound and offers a great panoramic view of Seattle. The island is a wonderful getaway from the business of the city where one can go hiking, biking, and just delighting in nature. Additionally, there are lots of lovely little shops and restaurants on the Island. For lunch, we tried to get in Café Nola but the wait was too long so we chose – our friend’s (whom we met on our trip to Mexico City) recommendation – the Harbour Public House (231 Paritt Way SW, Tel: ) instead. The restaurant’s historic setting offers a great view of Eagle Harbour where boats are bobbing and seagulls are windsurfing above. Choose a refreshing microbrew to go with those fish and chips, sandwich or salad. For dinner, our friend took us to Madoka Pan Pacific Restaurant (241 Winslow Way. Tel: ) that is truly a remarkable restaurant where the menu is “based on the bounty of the Pacific Ocean, influenced by the multitude of surrounding countries and cultures." The chef emphasizes high-quality sustainable products from the Northwest. The food alone here was worth the trip. 3. SPACE NEEDLE and MONORAIL: Obviously touristy but a must, just like the Sears Tower in Chicago or the Empire State Building in New York City. A kitschy, 60s design that was created for the 1962 World’s Fair that offers a wonderful 360-degree panoramic view of the city. It is the symbol of Seattle. The entry tickets make you want to mortgage your house ($16.00 for adults) but the view is almost worth it. We even got to see the majestic Mount Rainier peaking through and floating above the clouds. The Space Needle is surrounded by a park that contains a science museum and a kiddy land that is near the art museum and is a terminus of the Monorail (which was also built for the World’s Fair and runs every 10 minutes depositing you nearby the Market). 4. VICTROLA COFFE ROASTER (310 E. Pike Street): Needless to say that it is much better than Starbucks. A really good coffee house where the owners are pre-occupied with quality and passion for coffee. It is obvious that they take pride in their coffee. As they describe it on their website, every morning they gather – since 2003 when they began roasting their own coffee “because we wanted to have a direct hand in the quality of our coffees before they made their way into the espresso hopper or the French press. Armed with passion and a desire to learn that continues to influence everything we do, we committed ourselves to the task of sourcing, roasting and preparing the finest coffees available.” Need I say more? 5. PIONEER SQUARE (101 S. Main Street): Pioneer Square is the neighborhood where Seattle was founded in 1852, following a brief six-month settlement at Alki Point. It is now a National Historical District. The neighborhood is paved with cobblestones and populated with tiny little shops, galleries, coffee shops, and bookstores such as Elliot Bay Book Company that has the reputation (justly so) of being one of the finest book stores in the Northwest (I venture to say that probably in the country). This purveyor of books is a true gem with its hardwood floors, exposed beams, and huge, built in bookshelves with a multitude of books that leaves you in awe. As you walk around and browse through the books you’ll find hand-written notes attached to certain books with thoughts and/or remarks by the staff. I could have spent an entire day here; simply a must. While the bookstore does house a coffee shop I recommend you to go to Café Umbria – a block away (320 Occidental Ave. South) – that was established by an Italian family in 1986 and serves outstanding coffee creations. 6. SERIOUS PIE (316 Virginia Ave.) and LOLA (2000 4th Avenue) RESTAURANTS: Sorry to say but I was not familiar with Tom Douglas who is apparently a well-known chef in the culinary world (I guess one could say the Emeril of the Northwest … sorry, Mr. Douglas!). But after our visits to two of his eateries, I can safely say that he that the accolades that precede his name are well deserved. Both Lola’s (named after his mother in-law, I believe, offers a Greek-inspired menu that combines local northwest ingredients with Mediterranean freshness and simplicity.) and Serous Pie (serving rustic pizzas that are “brought to life on this blistered crust, lightly textured but with just enough structure and bite, and with exactly the right amount of “serious” toppings”) offer food that are made with fresh, in-season ingredients that not only warm the soul but fill up the hungry stomach. (Sorry, the pictures are taken with my phone and as you can see they are not very good!)

Walnut Valley Festival

2007-09-17T17:46:00.000-05:00

My husband had been bugging me for years to go with him to Winfield, Kansas to the bluegrass festival. At first, I was reluctant to do so because I am not exactly a bluegrass music fan. But I decided to go. How can I explain the experience? I cannot. Words simply cannot describe the atmosphere of Winfield. You must go there yourself but it will be well worth your time because there is no event in the world that comes even close to this. Where else would you be able to see an outdoor jamming session, which is more like a huge outdoor orchestra (whose members dress for a particular theme, such as “jammin’ in the jungle”) that plays the hora (traditional Jewish folk dance) to which a man from Kansas with an orange wig on dances an Irish jig. This sounds crazy but it is true at the Carp tent (one of my favorite camp sites where the music is awesome and the atmosphere is even better!) First, the raw facts: the Walnut Valley Festival (generally referred to as Winfield by non-residents or simply Bluegrass to Winfield locals) is a well-known acoustic music festival, held annually in Winfield, Kansas. The main genre of music is bluegrass but other acoustic styles are represented as well such as: Irish music, 20s-30s swing music, folk music, etc. The festival is held on the Wednesday through Sunday that includes the third Saturday of September. There are four simultaneous stages and many impromptu venues, notably “Stage 5,” that allow for a wide range of musical interests. Besides the world-class paid performers (the Dixie Chicks, Alison Crouse, Nickel Creek started here), Winfield is known for its instrumental contests. The headline contest is the National Flat-Pick guitar Championship. Other contests include the National Bluegrass Banjo, Hammer Dulcimer, fiddle, and Mandolin Championship. Camping on the grounds of the Cowley County Fairgrounds opens one week before the Thursday when the stage acts begin. Even before that, many regular campers are in line for choice campsites. This event is known as the Land Rush after the Oklahoma Land Rush that happened nearby. Approximately half of Winfield campers bring a musical instrument, so the campgrounds are particularly conducive to all-night jamming. Many of these campers do not only come from different parts of the country but of the world. Other visitors to the festival, like us, stay at a nearby hotel. Now, the personal impressions: the people you meet at Winfield are incredibly nice and laid-back -- be it a federal judge, a cowboy, an attorney or a surgeon. What binds them together is their love of music. Be it freezing cold or steaming hot, the people who come here to listen to their favorite music or jam until 4 am are not deterred by weather. They come here to Winfield to play and have fun.

A culturally saturated weekend: Stratford and Niagara-on-the Lake

2007-09-12T12:51:00.001-05:00

We spent our Labor Day weekend with our friends in Canada. Every year we travel to Stratford (Shakespeare Festival) and Niagara-on-the Lake (George Bernard Shaw Festival) in Canada to absorb as much Shakespeare as we can during this 3-4 day trip. The entire trip to Stratford (from Chicago) takes about 8-9 hours but we usually split it in half. We drive either to Detroit or Windsor, Canada; spend the night there and the next day we drive to Stratford. This time we drove to Detroit and spent the night at the Westin Hotel by the airport. The hotel was wonderful, especially their famous heavenly bed. After a good night sleep we headed to Stratford. Stratford is nestled in the picturesque heartland of Perth County in rural southwestern Ontario; this picturesque town offers world-class theater, great shopping, and first-rate dining experience. Truly, this is a paradise for Shakespeare lovers and of other fine playwrights. This year the Stratford Festival of Canada season runs from April 10 through to November 4, 2007. This acclaimed theater company presents 14 plays in repertory in four distinct theaters around the city. We saw the musicals My one and only and Oklahoma and the plays Othello and Comedy of Errors. Indeed, we are like paratroopers who are on a mission of trying to see as many plays as we can – it means two a day. But of course, not everybody has to be like us. It is equally pleasant to just walk along the Avon River and feed the ducks and swans, have a picnic or shop in the lovely little boutiques on Ontario Street. Naturally, we cannot forget to mention the dining here in Stratford. It is truly awesome. We especially love Bijou (French cuisine with an ever-changing blackboard menu), the Old Prune (superb food in a contemporary décor); and Rundles (the cuisine is based on French cookery with influences from Italy and Japan). I have to underline Bijou. It is absolutely our favorite restaurant in town and their braised, crispy duck leg is absolutely out of this world. I could eat there every night and the prices are very reasonable (they used to be even better when the dollar was stronger). On Sunday morning – after we consumed our last breakfast at the Alexandra Inn (we stayed here seven years but this year the owners decided to close their doors to guests) we drove to Niagara-on-the Lake, which is about an hour and a half drive from Stratford. It is the home to the Shaw Festival’s three theaters. This little town seems to attract visitors of many kinds: shoppers, history buffs, epicures, wine connoisseurs, gardeners, and those just seeking a leisurely escape. The town, set in a landscape of vineyards and orchards, is rich with beautifully restored architecture, lovingly tended parks and gardens, imaginative shops and galleries, a picturesque marina, luxury hotels and charming bed and breakfasts. We saw an afternoon performance of G.B. Shaw’s The Philanderer, which was a wonderfully performed witty play. The rest of the day we spent wondering around town and having a simple but scrumptious dinner (some awesome bread, salami, and cheese from DeLuca’s Cheese Market and Deli) at our B&B’s (The Guy Wilson House) back porch. Next morning -- after a super-awesome gourmet breakfast -- we headed over to the Canadian side of the Niagara Falls – a wondrous sight to behold – (a mere 15 minute drive) before we headed back to Chicago. I cannot wait to return next year!

Mai Manó Fotogaleria

2007-08-21T10:36:00.000-05:00

My parents and I visited this fin-de-siecle gem, off of Andrassy Boulevard, that houses a wonderful photo gallery giving proper tribute to Budapest's famous photographic history (Kertesz, Brassai, Capa ... to mention a few). The eight-floored building was built in a secessionist style in 1894 on the order of the the photographer, Manó Mai (1855-1917). In 1931, Sándor Rozsnyai (a musical director) and is wife bought the building from the family. They built the three-floored Arizona club in the yard, which had been empty until then. This remained open until 1944, when the owners were probably killed by Hungarian or German Nazis. After the war, the building served a variety of purposes such as a school or a presentation hall. From the early 1960s the Budapest branch of Hungarian Automobile Club used it over a period of 30 years. The Hungarian Association of Photographers was able to start buying the property rights from the residents. The Mai Manó Gallery opened on the half-floor in 1995 and the Hungarian House of Photography opened on the first and second floors in 1999. After the exhibit we had a cup of coffee at the Mai Mano Cafe which is next door to the gallery. It is also worth mentioning that the Mai Mano photo gallery is located on the "Muvesz Setany" where one can see three beautifully renovated theater houses, such as Thalia, Operett and Moulin Rouge.

Paris: a movable feast ...

2007-08-21T04:21:00.000-05:00

What can I say about Paris … other than to me (and I suspect to many others) it is the most beautiful city in the world. My friend and I visited it for 3 days this time (Make sure you know when the holidays are because almost everything is closed. For example, August 15 is Assumption Day, a Catholic holiday when only the restaurants and museums were open). Here are some of the highlights from this trip: 1.) CANAL St-MARTIN: this is the new, increasingly hip and bohemian quarter of the city, especially for the young 20- and 30-somethings. The three-mile canal along the canal, a Seine shortcut is lined by hip, colorful boutiques and funky restaurants. Even though the shops were closed due to the Fete d´Assumption, Antoine et Lili (95 quai de Valmy) looked cool with its supremely fashionable baby and children clothes. We had lunch at the Hotel du Nord where the 1938 film of the same name was shot, which is an idyllic spot overlooking a footbridge of the canal. 2.) PERE LACHAISE CEMETERY: it is Paris`most famous and prestigious cemetery, set on a hill, lined with massive trees, populated with beautiful toombstones. It looks like an outdoor museum. Famous people lay here buried such as: Marcel Proust, Jim Morrison, Edith Piaf, Moliere, Oscar Wilde, and La Fontaine … just to name a few. Not far from here is the Edith Piaf Museum in Belleville (5 rue Crespin-du-Gast, 11th, 00 33 01-43.55.52.72 but by appointment only) but unfortunately, we could not visit it due to our lack of time. 3.) LE MARAIS: it remains my favorite quartier of Paris. Old elegance is embodied in the beautifully restored 17th century mansions that harmoniously co-exist with the cool boutiques displaying contemporary art, fashion, and culture. In the heart of the Marais is the Place des Vosges, perhaps the most lovely square in the world and my favorite. Victor Hugo lived here in one of the houses and where he created Les Miserables. 4.) BOUTIQUE CREA: I just discovered this boutique on this recent trip to Paris. I instantly fell in love with the unique and artful designs that combine natural colors and materials. Conveying a strong personality, Crea Concept collections make you stand out from the crowd. 2 bis rue des Rosiers. Tel: 01 42 74 18 69 5.) ILE ST-LOUIS: One of the most beautiful areas of Paris; a haven of serinity and old world elegance. It is the favorite residential area of artists and, I suspect, wealthy people. When strolling across the calm and romantic streets do not forget to stop by Berthillon because all Parisians know that it is the best ice cream parlor around. TIP: I stayed at the Hotel Eiffel Kennedy, which is located by the the building of Radio France. It is in walking disntance from the Eiffel Tower and Trocodero. The rooms are clean, comfortable and charming; the staff is very kind and friendly (especially Bernard) 12 rue de Boulainvilliers, tel: 00 33 (0)1 45 24 45 75. I got a special rate for $206 for 2 nights, which was a bargain. I would stay here again. The bus 72 stops here, which takes you to the very center of Hotel de Ville.

Kekesteto - Hollókő

2007-08-09T15:37:00.000-05:00

The motorcycle trip with my brother was awesome. I loved the speed of the bike as well as the beautifully picturesque countryside we traveled through. I saw some of the most breathtakingly simple yet amazing sights, tiny villages, and churches. I felt like I was traveling back in time to those memorable years of my childhood as we spotted storkes nesting on top of the light poles. We first rode to Kekesteto which measures to be the highest point (1014 meters) in Hungary. It is a member of the Mátra Mountains that belongs to the Northern Mountain Range and is a part of the largest young volcanic zone of Europe. From the vineyard-covered landscape of the foot of the Mátra travellers can arrive at the wooded mountains in a flash. When we arrived at Kekesteto we climed the lookout tower that offered us a glorious panoramic view of the surrounding area. We left Kekesteto driving down the hairpinlike turns toward Hollókő, which is located in a picturesque mountainous area, about 100 km away from Budapest. But before we arrived at this lovely village we had lunch at a roadside restaurant called Baboscsarda (Beansoup tavern). We ate their namesake beansoup and a spatzle (german noodles) with fresh sheep cheese and bacon (not exactly low-fat). When we arrived at Hollókő – a part of the UNESCO World Heritage – my heart almost skipped a beat at the sight of this charming village which is practically a "living museum" on the northern part of Hungary. This astounding community has preserved the warm, people-friendly atmosphere of the diminishing village-life so many of us long to experience. The traditional peasant houses, surrounded by the gentle slopes of the Cserhát recalls the world of the old Hungarian folk tales. Here you can find a wonderful example of the harmony can be created between nature and architecture. There are several museums and shops that give us a glimpse of a long gone area. Hand-made pottery as well as beautifully designed and hand-embroidered dresses made by local artists can also be purchased here (I bought a beautiful hand-made blouse for about 30 dollars). After Hollókő we headed home to Budapest and we stopped at an outstanding gelateria called "Vari Cukraszda" (ice cream shop located at 1161 Budapest Szlovák út 86) that offered the most amazing variety of flavors such as chocolate-chili pepper and tokaji aszu (world famous Hungarian after-dinner drink) ice cream (many of these flavors won a Gold or Silver medal at the Italian Ice Cream Competition at Rimini). The awsome gelato was a crowning end worthy end to a perfect day.

Back home ...

2007-08-08T00:22:00.000-05:00

Well, I just got here to Budapest on Monday. And even though I am trying to get over the jetleg I did a lot of walking around town yesterday: from the Margaret Island my brother and I strolled across the Danube on Margaret Bridge, down on Sent Istvan korut (Saint Stephen Blvd.) that has some beautiful buildings built Classissist style (e.g. Vigszinhaz, one of the many theaters in the city) and where the weary traveler can stop for a couple of scoops of gelato (a type of ice cream) then we continued on Terez Korut to Oktogon. The Oktogon, of course got its name because this square has six sides with streets and boulvards running through it. Andrassy Boulvard is one of them and my favorite with its massive shade-giving trees. About 5 minutes from Oktogon is Liszt Ferenc Ter where there is a row of cafes that offers different types of cuisine. We tried Cafe Vian (normally I go to the one next door to it, Cafe Miro) that offers an imaginative selection of salads and sandwiches with some great local wine in an ambiance suitable for relaxed chatting and catching up with old friends. It is interesting to note that the city is filled with backpackers from all-over Europe because the biggest music event of Central-Eastern Europe, the Sziget or "Island," is taking place right now on Hajogyarisziget, part of Obuda Island in the Danube north of Budapest. This marathon of concerts takes place for a week. There are hundreds of foreign -- some of them are well-known -- and local bands that entertain the crowds. This festival attracts a lot of people because of its high quality performers and lower ticket prices. Day passes are 8000 HUF or 40 dollars. Today, my brother is dragging me to ride his motorcycle around Hungary. It will be interesting because it is incredibly hot so I have to decide between wearing protective gear and avoiding a heatstroke. I will report on this advanture ...

Anne Fontaine: the perfect white shirt

2007-08-01T15:42:00.000-05:00

Born to a Brazilian mother and a French father, Anne Fontaine – in my opinion – creates some of the most beautiful white shirts in the world. The classic white shirt is the equivalent of the “small black dress” which is a fashion must-have, an indispensable piece of every woman’s wardrobe. The choice of a single, luxurious product, and the cachet of “Made in France” allowed this designer to distinguish her brand and product. Anne Fontaine’s shirts are beautifully designed, feminine and sensual; they are made of pique (brushed) cotton, poplin, and organdy. Her designs have “double collars,” laces, flowers (of the same white fabric) and unique twists that other shirts do not have. Each shirt is a perfect. Unfortunately, they are a bit pricey (especially now that the dollar is so weak against the euro). They do have sales twice a year, however! Located at 909 N. Michigan Avenue, Chicago, Illinois but they have boutiques throughout the United States and Europe.

Ravinia: Music under the stars

2007-08-01T14:04:00.000-05:00

What can be better than a bottle of good red wine, cheese, and Viennese waltzes under the starry nights? Not much. Honestly, Ravinia is one of my favorite places in the world. Since 1904, Ravinia has been associated with Chicago’s “sounds of summer.” Imagine a huge park with a lot of massive shade-giving trees where you can put down your blanket and lay down on the beautifully maintained lawn and share a picnic with your friends while you are listening to the some of the greatest music of the world. And it gets better as the evening progresses: as the sun goes down, the air gets balmier; the lightening bugs begin their magical dances and the stars begin to flicker. I only wish I could be at Ravinia every night because it’s truly delightful. Tonight’s performance is Mahler’s Sixth Symphony, August 4th it’s Placido Domingo and August 5th it’s Beethoven’s Fifth.

Rome: the Eternal City

2007-07-23T12:48:00.001-05:00

“O Roma, Roma, at thy feet I lay this barren gift of song! For, ah! the way is steep and long That leads unto thy sacred street.” (Rome Unvisited by Oscar Wilde) Rome: the Eternal city, the Pope, Fellini, gelato, la bella figura, art. These are just some of the words that conjure up so many wonderful things about this beautiful but oftentimes quite imposing city. The task to see Rome can be daunting so here is a list of some of my favorite things (in addition to the long list of “must see things” that every guidebook will give you): TRASTEVERE (“across the Tiber”): it is distinct area of Rome that used to be the city’s poorest slum but today it’s a charming area with wonderful little boutiques, small restaurants and a vibrant nightlife. The city’s large Jewish synagogue is also nearby in the midst of the old Jewish ghetto whose walls were torn down in 1849. AL SOGNO: this adorable toy store at the Piazza Navona sweeps you away no matter how old you are. Its wooden Pinocchio figurines and painted wooden letters are good souvenirs. 53 Piazza Navona. THE TERRACE OF HOTEL RAPHAEL: take a break from the busy street life and enjoy a glass of wine or Champaign on the top of this charming hotel that offers a breathtaking view of the rooftops of the city. FABRIANO: an ultra cool stationary store where everything is arranged by color. 173 Vida del Babiano. THE TINY BOUTIQUE OF LILLIANA MICHILLI: she makes faithful copies of rings by the master jewel makers, Cartier, Bulgari, etc. The best are, however, her original designs: beautiful filigreed earrings, and necklaces. 37 Via dei Banchi Vecchi. VILLA BORGHESE: a magical place with its gardens (sculptures by Bernini’s father) where, under the shade of the huge trees the weary traveler can take respite and seek refuge from the summer heat. The villa houses one of the greatest collections of paintings, sculptures, and antiquities.

Hannah's Bretzel: Twisted and tasty since 1477

2007-07-23T11:40:00.000-05:00

The first time I went inside this small organic eatery, Hannah’s Bretzel, in downtown Chicago I felt like I was in Europe. The décor is chic and savvy. The signature color is red. The food is wonderfully fresh and tasty. The owner, Florian Pfahler (originally from Stuttgart, Germany) and his crew serve the ravenous urbanites with these 95 per cent organic bretzels (whole grain or traditional) or bretzel sandwiches, organic salads, and seasonal soups. “Bretzels” are akin to “Pretzels" but as the store website explains it, the company wanted to emphasize the bretezel’s bread-like qualities and to build a bridge to its German origins. They are daily baked and, naturally, are always fresh. Beside the great sandwiches (and coffee creations) there is also a huge selection of chocolates from all over the world. Need I say more? 180 West Washington at Wells, Chicago, Illinois.

Leon, the garden gnome

2007-07-20T11:17:00.000-05:00

Call me silly but I’ve always wanted to have a garden gnome (especially, when I saw the movie Amelie where the main character’s father’s gnome gets kidnapped and flown all over the world). And finally, I got Leon, my brand new garden gnome who plays the accordion. I bought this French made fairy tale figurine (these garden gnomes are popular across Europe) at P.O.S.H that sells unique, often one-of-a-kind or limited in quantity products, such as French pastis (anise flavor drink) glasses, coffee bowls, silverware, etc ... and of course, gnomes. When you go to this store located at 613 N. State Street in Chicago, you’d better buy what you like or else you may never find it next time. (The owners often bring these products in from flea markets in Europe.) Even if you don’t fancy gnomes you’ll find something you want to take home from this lovely shop.

Xavier: a cheese-lover's paradise

2007-07-16T18:20:00.000-05:00

“Comme ils sont ingrats les hommes! Les uns chantent le pieton; d’autres le jus de pommes, d’autres enfin le houblon. Mais aucun ne rend homage a cet enchanteur divin. Qui donc pourrait, sans fromage; gouter biere cidre ou vins? Fromage! Poesie! Bouquet de mes repas, que sentirait la vie, si l’on ne t’avait pas? (Louis-Eugene, dit Victor Meusy Chansonnier) Do you love cheese? If you do, this place is for you: Xavier Fromagerie. We discovered this culinary gem when we visited Toulouse, France last year. It was a cheese-lover’s paradise with its collection of magnificently pungent, fruity and ripe aromas and tastes. Offering subtlety, mildness, character, diversity of aromas and flavors, colors and shapes the essence of France’s different regions come alive. And thankfully to the Internet, you can order some from their generous assortment of cheeses as well as their cheese trays (such as “the moment of delight” and the “end of the meal” board). The website, written in English, can be easily navigated. They do ship to the United States, but of course, you will have to pay some price for this … a price that’s well worth the days of delight.

A Midsummer Night's Dream in the Morton Arboretum

2007-07-16T17:37:00.000-05:00

“Through the house give gathering light, by the dead and drowsy fire: Every elf and fairy sprite. Hop as light as bird from brier; and this ditty, after me, sing, and dance it trippingly.” (William Shakespeare: A Midsummer Night’s Dream). Among the trees in the forests of the Morton Arboretum came alive the magical kingdom of elves and fairies of A Midsummer Night’s Dream this past Sunday. We strolled along with the actors as they moved about the grounds of the arboretum from one off-trail area to another performing the scenes of this classic play in different settings. The guided hikes are non-strenuous and last about 2-3 hours. It is a perfect feast for the senses: the beautiful greenery, the fragrance of the forest, and the enthralling story of Shakespeare. I can tell you that it was truly enchanting as we sat on our portable chairs watching the adventures of mischievous Puck and the other characters of this magnificent play during the balmy midsummer afternoon. You can pre-order the tickets (hikes only are $15.00 non-members) online, by phone or by showing up at the arboretum before the show. You may also want join the dinner after the show, which takes place at Ginko restaurant with the cast of the play. All an all, this was truly a unique experience; one that I will not forget.

Bhabi's Kitchen

2007-07-09T18:00:00.000-05:00

My friend and I decided to go check out Bhabi’s Kitchen after I saw the review on “Check Please.” I was not disappointed. The super friendly and sweet husband and wife team (Mr. Syed and Bhabi) runs a wonderful little eatery right off of Devon. The walls are brightly colored that make you feel like you are in somebody’s home. The cuisine is Indian: spicy, fresh and flavorful. My friend and I ordered the “vegetable samosas” that were flaky and light (not greasy at all) to wet our appetite. Mr. Syed then recommended us to try some of the vegetable house specialties: the “Sarsoo K Saag” (Bhabi’s special broccoli rabe cooked with herbs and spices) and the “Bagerey Balgan” (Indian eggplant cooked with secret spices). They were both fantastic. Also, to complement and tame the spiciness of the meals we ordered some homemade bread (the naan with onion, garlic and green pepper and the pistachio, powdered sugar and dried fruit one), which were truly delectable. All in all, if you crave something unique, exotic, flavorful and spicy – go check out Bhabi’s Kitchen. It is also BYOB. 6352 N. Oakley Blvd, Chicago, IL 60659. Tel:

Budapest: "tale of two cities"

2007-07-09T10:20:00.000-05:00

Often called “Paris of Eastern Europe,” this majestic city lays a valid claim to be one of the most beautiful capitals of Europe. Necklaced by seven bridges (some are beautiful – such as the Lanchid or Chain Bridge – others are more utilitarian) the city makes a full visual spectacle of the river Danube (making its long course from the Black Forest to the Black Sea) by straddling it on either side: the quiet, leafy, and hilly Buda and the noisy and busy urban Pest. Walking through the cobblestone streets of Budapest one cannot fail to witness the “scars of many conflicts” worn by the beautiful buildings which offer a permanent memorial to the bygone era of wars, Holocaust, and uprising. Today, Budapest boasts of opera houses, numerous museums, theaters, art galleries, cinemas, and countless great restaurants, cafes and bars. Each is easily approachable by some form of the superb public transportation the city offers to its visitors and habitants. (Note: those visitors who are interested in seeing the many sights of Budapest in a hurry can purchase a Budapest Card, available form the metro kiosks, travel agencies, or tourist bureaus for about $35 (6,450 HUF) for two days. It allows free travel on public transports, admission to over 50 key sites, and discounts around town.) As it happens every year I will go home to visit my parents in August. I will then report about the great new restaurants, shops and other noteworthy places of the city. Until then here the TOP 10 sights of Budapest I recommend to a first time visitor: 1. Central Synagogue (the world’s second biggest synagogue) 2. Margaret Island (or Margitsziget, a green oasis in the middle of Buda and Pest) 3. Castle District 4. Varosliget (the City Park with many baths, great restaurants, and museums) and Heroes’ Square. 5. Opera House (Home to Liszt and Mahler) 6. Vaci utca (quaint shopping street in the heart of the city) 7. Basilica 8. Chain Brige 9. Andrassy Boulevard (Budapest’s answer to the Champs D’Elysees)

Santorini ... an awe-inspiring location

2007-07-06T10:14:00.000-05:00

This February we arrived from the busy hubbub of Istanbul to the quiet and tranquil village of Oia. During our stay in Santorini we found respite at the Hotel Alexander. We were upgraded to the Diamond suite, which was one of the most beautiful and comfortable rooms (decorated with antiques) we have ever stayed in. Because it was the end of February we were the only guests there. We had much time to contemplate the beauty of the sunsets and the enchanting view of Oia while feasting on bountiful breakfasts and drinking local wine served to us by the gracious Nadia. We also had time to read the guest book which was full of remarks written by more-than-satisfied guests overwhelmed by the hotel’s warm and friendly staff, the welcoming and helpful owner Alexander’s suggestions and hospitality, and the luxuriousness of the hotel accommodation. Even though February is definitely not a busy time of the year it was lovely to drive around the island in our rented Smart car. We can only imagine how wonderful Santorini is during the summer or fall when the quaint shops and delightful restaurants are open. (at least I couldn’t spend money) We will definitely return! Finally, the highlight of our trip: we spent an amazing evening with Alex and Marta, the owners of Alexander Hotel. While we were still at the hotel in Santorini Alex and Marta inquired if we wanted to dine with them in Athens (we didn’t meet them in Santorini because they had business they had to tend to in Athens before the season started). Naturally, we were more then happy to accept their invitation. We were picked up at the metro station by Marta; driven to Lake Marathon (this is where Pheidippides started his famous run to deliver the news of Greek victory over the Persians) where we were invited for a drink by our gracious hosts; taken to a local taverna where we partook in an abundant feast of Greek delicacies -- again at the expense of our hosts; and finally driven back to our hotel by the airport at 3:30 in the morning (about 30 minutes from the taverna). This was a testament to our hosts’ – the owners of Hotel Alexander – genuine love and gracious hospitality.

Those languorous summer days ...

2007-07-05T09:48:00.000-05:00

As I was sitting in my backyard in Evanston sipping a glass of wine I closed my eyes reminiscing of past pleasures of summer. I was quickly transported back to the shores of Lake Balaton where I would spend languorous summer days with my friend’s family at Balatonaliga. We would fritter many hours just sitting around the long wooden table under their shady walnut tree eating, drinking, and talking without a care in the world. Then we would jump in the refreshing water of the lake that offered us a welcome relief from the scorching heat. To me, these days represent pure unadulterated joy. To many Hungarians, the region of Lake Balaton (Central Europe’s larges lake, located in central Hungary about 50 miles (80 km) southwest of Budapest) seems to reflect the Hungarian soul better than any other part of the country. As the National Geographic wrote “the atmosphere and mood of a sea – the loneliness, the colours, the whims, the untamed self-will of the ocean.” The region around the lake is a world of light and water. Sunlight flickers on the waters of the lake and sheds its evening glow on the carts that make their way home across the lovely fields. Strings of paprika dying in the sun, caressed by the balmy air and colorful embroidered fabrics make this place so achingly beautiful.

A beautiful day ...

2007-07-02T12:53:00.000-05:00

I had the most wonderful day yesterday. It was my birthday and my husband made sure that I had a delightful day. He started me off for a good day when he drove down to Vanille (my favorite patisserie or pastry shop in Chicago) to get some chocolate croissants, a bottle of champagne and some fresh fruit from the farmer’s market. But before we could enjoy this marvelous breakfast/lunch we went running by the lake in Evanston. The temperature was just perfect with just enough wind to cool us off for our little backyard feast. In the afternoon (with a slight buzz from the bubbly drink), we headed down to my favorite French boutique, Cotelac on Webster Street. Luckily (not so much for Richard), a summer sale was in progress (30-70% on certain spring and summer merchandise) so my husband lavished me with a collection of enchantingly beautiful and unique dresses, pants, and tops. What I love about Cotelac is that the clothes are like unique pieces of artwork in the way they are created: the unusual and high-quality fabrics are oftentimes cut, pleated, twisted, and crinkled to form soft, feminine, and beautiful silhouettes. It’s also important to note that the versatility of the line allows the collection to be worn in different ways, mixing and matching separates throughout all the different seasons (and they also travel wonderfully). While the clothes are not inexpensive, the thoughtfulness behind the clever and gorgeous designs of Raphaelle Cavalli is worth (in my opinion) the price. For dinner we feasted on the incredibly fresh and inventive culinary creations of husband and wife gastronomic team, Mohammad Islam and Malika Ameen at Aigre Doux. “Aigre-doux” is the French term for the combined flavors of sour (aigre) and sweet (doux), two flavors that are laced through all of their dishes – sometimes subtly and other times more powerfully. We ordered the sweet pea ravioli and the duck sausage goat cheese pizza for appetizers; the buttery poached cod and seared ahi tuna (appetizer portion) for entrée; and finally we topped all of this off with their signature dessert of sticky toffee bread pudding (which could be marketed as an aphrodisiac). For each of these dishes I could sing an aria exalting their greatness but instead I just say: please eat there!!!

Featured Artist: Dalia Pascal

2007-07-02T11:06:00.000-05:00

Whenever I wear this set (shown on the picture) by Dalia Pascal people comment on how great and unique it looks. As I noted in my blog about Mexico City, I bought this set in the boutique of the La Condesa Hotel DF in Mexico. The coral color bean-shaped beads are laced with the silver beads that make this necklace truly striking. Dalia often uses materials that are indigenous to Mexico to create great pieces of jewelry, such as chunky silver rings (some with semi-precious stones), unique necklaces and earrings with distinctive ethnic motifs. Some of her designs are available now to people in the United States through the Internet at www.etnyka.com. You can also visit her website at www.daliapascal.com.

The Smart is coming ...

2007-06-29T11:49:00.000-05:00

As I was talking with my parents on Skype yesterday (they live in Budapest, Hungary) my father told me that the Smart car was coming the United States early next year. My dad knows how much I love this little car. Indeed, I fell in love with it the first time I encountered it on the streets of Paris. It’s small, cute, and cool! Unfortunately, my husband does not want any part of this new “love affair.” He is convinced that this small car cannot be safe. But the Smart website claims it otherwise: the car boasts of a tridion safety cell (sounds pretty cool to me), which is made from three layers of steel that are reinforced at strategic points. It is like a nut that is protected by its hard outside shell. But it has a host of other safety equipment as well. (Read on about it at the Smart website at www.smartusa.com) However, what is also really cool about the Smart cars is that they choose 100% recyclable synthetics for things like our dashboards and wheel housing covers in order to be eco and environmentally friendly. How can anyone resist this much “coolness”?

5 Days in Mexico City

2007-06-26T07:44:00.000-05:00

It’s been almost 3 weeks since we got back from the Distrito Federal (“DF”) or Mexico City but unfortunately my first attempted posting about the DF on our brand new blog got erased somehow. But because I loved the DF so much I wanted to make sure to re-create our 5-day adventure somehow and post it on our blog … so here it is …

When we told people that we were going to spend 5 days in Mexico City we were met with quizzical looks accompanied by questions such as “Why do you want to go to Mexico City? What’s there?” Initially, we responded with the all too general answer of “Why not? We have never been there before!” However, after our trip our reply changed to a more unequivocal answer “Because Mexico City is one of the most fascinating, colorful, and culturally rich places in the world.”

Fist Day, Wednesday:

Our AeroMexico flight departed at around 8:00 in the morning from Chicago, O-Hare to the Benito Juarez Airport in DF. Much to our surprise we were offered to upgrade our economy seats to first class for a mere $100.00 a person. Needless to say we jumped at the opportunity. Once we arrived at the DF we collected our luggage and went to a kiosk to order a taxi that would take us to our hotel. NOTE: Make sure always to take a taxi that is ordered by your hotel or called by a restaurant otherwise you may fall prey to one of many pirate cabs that operate illegally in the DF that have a tendency to rip off tourists. (Also, as we found out from our hotel concierge, it is important to take a cab that bears the letter “S” or “L”. Also make sure that the number on the side of the taxi matches the license plate number.)

After about a 20-minute cab ride we arrived at the Hotel Sheraton Centro Historico across from the Alameda Park in the heart of the city. Unfortunately, not much after our arrival, a massive thunderstorm began (which turned into a daily ritual for the pendency of our stay) that lasted for about 2 hours – enough for us to have a lunch at our hotel (which was truly refreshing and sumptuous, especially the house-recommended local wine of Cabernet Sauvignon, Casa Madero) and to take a nap. Having been refreshed, we walked down to the concierge who informed us that the Ballet Folklorico de Mexico was performing that night (only twice a week, Wednesday and Sunday nights) at the Museo de Bellas Artes (about a 10 minute leisurely stroll from our hotel). One Internet site describes Amelia Hernandez’ production as “movements which are not only entertaining, but she makes you feel like traveling to Mexico.” And truly, this magnificent production served as a wonderful introduction to the colorful city of the DF.

Second Day, Thursday:

Having finished a cup of tall latte with a double shot of espresso from Starbucks (yes, Starbucks – right next to our hotel – because it served stronger coffee than the local variety), we were ready to embark on a day full of adventures. We strolled through the Alameda Park’s edge where the Museo Mural Diego Rivera is located. It is a small museum with Rivera's fresco mural, "Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in Alameda Park." Unfortunately, there is not much English explanation to the history of this magnificent mural that encapsulates the history of Mexico City. It’s worth it to go upstairs where there are some great photos of Diego and Frida as well some of their letters written in response to a scandal that erupted as a result of one of Diego’s murals and his comments regarding the existence of God (or rather, lack thereof).

Leaving the museum we sauntered through the Alameda Park to the Casa de los Azuelos or the Blue Tiled House. This gorgeous popular meeting place is covered in gorgeous blue-and-white tiles dating back to the end of the 1500s, when it was built for the count of the Valley of Orizaba. Richard and I decided to stop here for lunch at Sanborn’s, a lovely restaurant in the Casa with absolutely splendid architecture. Make sure that you pause to see the Orozco mural, Omniscience, on the landing leading to the second floor (where the restrooms are). Also, you may want to go upstairs to one of the old leather chair adorned bars where Mexican businessmen sit around eating and drinking their tequila. We had some tequila ourselves. The Casa de los Azuelos is an absolute “must” in Mexico City.

Next we walked from the Blue Tiled House to the Zocolo. As we made our way down to the picaresque streets leading to the giant square that is the Zocalo, (it’s the second largest public square in the world after Red Square in Moscow) we passed countless shops selling everything from brand-name sunglasses to Italian made leather suitcases. As you approach the square there is a heavily embellished front façade with grand 17th century baroque portals and bas relief panels. The Temple Mayor, the ruins of the Aztec city, which the Spaniards had destroyed to build the cathedral, was next door. Mexican families strolled along the paths while their children took notes for school history projects and tourists took in the sights of the enormous cathedral.

Outside the Temple Mayor there are numerous street-vendors from different parts of Mexico selling everything from beautifully embroidered blouses (I bought a gorgeous one for $3.00) to purses and other worthy souvenirs. Next, we walked to the Conjunto de San Ildefonso, whose walls are decorated with murals from the Mexican artists Diego Rivera, Jose Clemente Orozco and David Alfaro Siqueiros. In ancient times, San Ildefonso served as a renowned Jesuit school that was founded in 1588. And if I understood it correctly with my limited Spanish, this is the place where Frida and Diego met for the first time while Diego was working on his mural, the “Creation.” (Frida was a student at the school).

As we stepped out from the museum of San Ildefonso it started raining so we made our way back to our hotel with the our newly purchased 3 dollar-umbrella. On the way to the Sheraton we stopped at an Argentinean food stall, which sold different types of empanadas and where the owner serenaded us with songs of Carlos Gardel (the famous Argentinean singer) such as “Mi Buenos Aires Querido” while we were munching on the empanadas.

Of course, I had to wash down the food with some tequila so we also stopped by the La Nueva Bar de Opera, which is probably one of the most famous bars in Mexico, certainly the most historic. A beautiful cantina in the downtown district, around since 1870, it looks straight out of some western movie, with its ornate ceilings, frosted windows, tiled floors and long dark wood bar counter. We’ve read that many Mexican celebrities have at some point sipped tequila or a beer in here, but without question, the most famous of all is Mexican revolutionary hero Pancho Villa, who allegedly blew a bullet hole into the ceiling back in 1910. The hole is still there and the barman will be pleased to point it out.

Exhausted, we arrived back to the Sheraton in time to make a reservation at a great restaurant with its white walls and pictures of Mexican popular art, called Fonda El Refugio (Liverpool 166) in the Zona Rosa that attracts a lot of international clientele. Since neither one of us smoke we were ushered into a room that was apparently the “gringo room” with only Americans dining in it. Normally, I don’t like to be surrounded by tourists but this time I didn’t regret it. We met some people who definitely made our trip more delightful. The house margarita is a must and so is the guacamole … and everything else that is on the menu!

Third Day, Friday:

More museums to see! The DF is full of wonderful museums and art but unfortunately, there is too little time to see all. I did, however, definitely want to visit the Museo del Arte Popular (11 Revillagigedo, Centro Histórico), a museum showcasing the country’s finest handicrafts and folk art. Recently opened, the museum houses a gift-shop selling high-quality Mexican crafts, embroidered tunics and woven shawls. And if you are in need of a caffeine fix, there is also a great coffee bar. Did I forget to mention the best of all? The museum is free!!!

If you find the goods sold at the Popular Art museum a bit pricey, you can walk a few blocks to the popular crafts market, Centro Artesanal la Ciudadela (Balderas y Plaza de la Ciudadela, 1 and 5; www.laciudadela.com.mx). I brought some great pottery made in the Mexican town of Pueblo, as well as Frida and Che Guevara T-Shirts for $5.00 each.

After our routine afternoon rainstorm Richard and I went to the famous National Museum of Anthropology, which is something not to be missed and where one can spend days (unfortunately we only had 3 hours). And neither should you miss the Condesa DF Hotel, in the La Condesa district, with its popular rooftop bar, an exclusive disco and movie theater in the basement. Upon arrival I asked the manager about the resident chocolate Labrador I had read about on one of the travel sites. Sure enough the big friendly dog was ushered in to greet us. The buzzing restaurant housed in an all-white courtyard with a wall of cascading greenery is an ideal spot for people watching, especially during dinner (which starts around 9:30 p.m. in Mexico City). I loved this place, especially with its boutique that sells great and unique jewelry by artist Dalia Pascal, a Uruguayan-born designer.

Our day ended at the celebrated restaurant Izote, located in the middle of the luxurious Polanco district, where reservations are hard to come by. Award-winning chef Quintana's specialties include four tamales (cheese and epazote; cheese and squash blossoms; back corn truffles; and shredded chicken with spicy tomato salsa), ceviche, and fresh fish dishes prepared in a unique way. The restaurant is surrounded by upscale boutiques.

Fourth Day, Saturday:

Finally, the day arrived when I could go to visit the ancestral home of one of my favorite artists, Frida Kahlo, in Coyoacan, a colorful and affordable district of Mexico City known for its markets and original architecture. But first we met up with our new friends (the ones from Refugio) to go to the market of San Angel. We deliberately went to San Angel on Saturday because this romantic colonial town is famous for it's Bazar Sábado (Saturday Market) held in Plaza San Jacinto.

On the way to the actual indoor bazaar you’ll encounter local artists selling their artwork. As you pass the Plaza you’ll see an older house with sky-blue color walls, and colorful artifacts hanging on its walls. Do not pass it! Upon entering this “indoor flea market,” you’ll surely discover something you want to take home: be it a brightly painted inexpensive paper mache doll or some wonderful old pottery.

Continue your way up on one of the winding, cobblestone streets bordered by colorful and quaint houses and you’ll arrive to the actual Bazaar. On Saturday the indoor bazaar is surrounded by a massive number of street vendors selling everything from bedcovers to colorful straw bags. Inside, there are shops upon shops selling high-quality products such as fine embroidered and woven blouses from different regions of Mexico and jewelry (only buy silver with .925 stamped on it). Inside this great bustling place you can take some time to sit down (or stand by one of the food vendors) in the middle of the courtyard to eat some tacos and drink a refreshing beer while listening to the mariachi band. It’s great fun.

San Angel also houses the Studio Diego Rivera (where Rivera lived with his wife Frida in their adjoining studios), which we had to miss in order to see the Frida Kahlo museum.

A short taxi ride away stands Coyoacan or “the place where they have coyotes,” one of the 17 boroughs of the DF home to “La Casa Azul,” Frida Kahlo’s birthplace and the Leon Trotsky museum.

Hidden behind the intense cobalt-blue house at the corner of Londres and Allende is the magnificent house of Frida Kahlo, much celebrated surrealist Mexican painter, where she was born in 1907 and where she lived with her husband Diego Rivera, famed muralist, until her death at age 47 in 1953. What a fascinating place this is. How odd that complete strangers can stroll through the house where Kahlo actually lived and glimpse the everyday life of Frida and Diego. The personal artifacts of these two great celebrities are everywhere – the pots they use to cook, the furniture they sat on, the paintings they created. Indeed, one feels a bit like a voyeur looking at Frida’s bedroom, filled with her favorite artifacts, and her death mask laid on the bed where she spent many tortuously painful hours of her much too short life.

For dinner we headed to the famous cantina restaurant La Bipolar (155 Malitzin, Mexico City, 04100 in Coyoacan) partly owned by Mexican heartthrob Diego Luna. The restaurant is frenzied, with young Mexicans and tourists alike drinking beer and feasting on tasty marlin tacos and tofu burritos. We liked this place very much but know that no reservations are taken; you just have to appear and hope to get in.

Fifth Day, Sunday:

While Agi was still dreaming of the Casa Azul Richard, who is an inveterate jogger, went jogging down the Avenida Reforma (the Fifth Avenue of Mexico City). The city closes off the avenue for families, kids, and joggers on Sundays. The local motorists hate it but it’s becoming a real tradition!

It was our last full day in Mexico City so we thought that it would be perfect to visit Teotihucan, “the city where men become gods.” The archeological site is only about an hours drive from the city and there are numerous tours that you can sign up for at any good hotel. Our tour group’s members actually did feel like gods after having climbed the two massive, pre-Columbian 300-step “stair masters,” which are pyramids: the Sun and Moon pyramids. (Make sure that you take plenty of water, sunscreen, and a hat with you, as it is very hot!) It is believed that when these buildings were built, human sacrifice was “stepped up” to dedicate these new buildings to the gods.

Prior to arriving at Teotihucan our tour (for which we signed up at our hotel) took us to the Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe, which is an important place of pilgrimage for Catholics all over the world. According to the legend, during a walk from his village to the city an inhabitant saw a vision of the Virgin Mary at the Hill of Tepayac. This man was told to build an abbey but the Spanish bishop refused to believe him and asked for a miraculous sign. So the Virgin told this man to gather flowers from the hill, even though it was wintertime and nothing was blooming. Allegedly, the man found Spanish roses, gathered them on his coat and presented these to the bishop. When the roses fell from his robe, the image of the Virgin Mary remained imprinted on his cloth. Whether you believe this or not, it’s an interesting sight to behold (especially on Sunday when we were there) with people dancing for the Virgin and crawling across the plaza on their knees thereby showing some penance for their sins (I think that’s the reason).

Another stop on the way out to Teotihucan was a local tequila factory where we saw how they make tequila. Naturally we were offered a taste – amazingly, right before we were ushered into their adjacent and convenient (sarcasm) silver and obsidian jewelry store. Not much to anybody’s surprise virtually everyone on our tour made at least one tequila-fueled purchase!

Having now experienced a tiny taste of the Distrito Federal I definitely want to return. It is an amazingly colorful and vibrant place with much excitement, food, history, and culture. I surely give it “two big thumbs up!”

Agi & Richard’s Top 5 Favorite Things in the DF:

La Casa Azul of Frida Kahlo, Coyoacan (and San Angel’s Saturday Market)
Ballet Folklorico de Mexico
Teotihucan pyramids
La Condesa Hotel DF

Casa de los Azuelos, Blue tiled House

TURQUOISE RESTAURANT

2007-06-25T17:39:00.000-05:00

There is nothing bad about this restaurant (except the people who sat next to us and chain-smoked through their entire meal)! Everything is WONDERFUL. The menu features Turkish specialties with starters like “sogurme” (smoked eggplant with yogurt, garlic and walnuts toasted in crushed red pepper) and main courses such as “lamb begendi” (slow-simmered lamb with onions, cherry tomatoes and banana peppers and served over eggplant puree). Make sure you order one of the Turkish flat breads, especially the “lahmacun” (very thin flat bread topped with seasoned ground beef and vegetables). You must try a super-rich, flaky, buttery house-made baklava! You won’t regret it! The prices are right here and the food is phenomenally tasty and fresh. (2147 West Roscoe Street, Chicago, Illinois)

CRUST (2056 West Division, Chicago, Illinois)

2007-06-25T17:22:00.000-05:00

“Absolutely 100 % real” so says the slogan splattered across the (organic) T-shirt worn by the waiters at this new, environmentally conscious, ergonomically friendly, eatery on Division. And these are not just empty words. Chef Michael Altenberg (former co-owner of Campagnola in Evanston, and owner of Bistro Campagne in Lincoln Square) can boast with another great eating-place, that is the first organically certified restaurant in the Midwest. The design is sleek and funky with its bright orange plastic chairs and the food is fabulously fresh and earthy – specializing in flatbread, or the “more earthy brother of pizza,” as it is always the case with Chef Altenberg. Try the “flammkuchen” (caramelized onion, béchamel, caraway seed, slab bacon, cracked black pepper) and the sweet basil salad (the fresh-pulled mozzarella cheese is to die for!). The menu also offers a good list of wine and beer as well as creative twists on the classics such as grapefruit mojito. Eat & Drink Real!